RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

GodSpeed wrote:Now I need to look up/figure out the rpm of my motor based on its current timing spec and ESC settings so I can see what this would actually mean in real world driving. I'd like to know, but it's not likely I'm going to figure out that information.

***Ah crap, new page. Go back to pg.10 to see where a member asked me to look into "Rollout" after gearing was briefly discussed. It's pretty interesting, actually**



How about I continue rambling about this nonsense? I say it's ASC6000's fault haha

Since I don't see how I could figure out rpm of my particular setup (I'd love to know how because that would be a lot more interesting to use in calculations), what I can do is a bit of backwards mathematics to see some real world "results".

100yrds (a football field because everyone knows that) = 91,440mm

My car on the Calibers I'm awaiting will go 43.79mm per 1 revolution of the pinion (see above Rollout), so it will take 2088.15 pinion revolutions to go 100yrds. That really shouldn't take very long LOL

So in comparison to my bald TA Champion tires, if my motor turns the same 2088.15 revolutions, the car will have only travelled 89yrds....11 yards behind the new tires.

Nice. That's an ass whooping.

That got as much interest as I initially had with the question (about Rollout). haha

I now have the wheels and tires. JC Racing and Proline Caliber / 4-Ribs.

Question about mounting. Between this -- http://prolineracing.com/how-to-tips-tire-mounting

And this --

[youtube]6ux4JP_BiS0[/youtube]


....is that all I really need to know, or are there further tips/suggestions?

Here's my advice:
If the JC Racing wheels have vent holes, cover them. Don't vent the wheel, vent the tire. Make 2 or 3 evenly spaced small holes in each tire. This keeps dirt and water out, wheel vents invite dirt and water in.
I've never trimmed foams. Since you're just playing around, you probably shouldn't bother.
Be sure to clean both the tire and wheel beads with alcohol.
I'm sure r/c specific CA glue is great, but I've always just used name brand superglue- Loctite, Super Glue, Gorilla Glue, it doesn't matter. Just make sure it's a name brand cyanoacrylate glue in liquid- not gel- form. If you already got r/c CA, all the bettter, but I've never bothered. The only time I've had problems with a tire glue job (I've glued many tires) was the time I used off brand super glue.
I hope this helps.

Yep, helps tons. I was specifically curious about the wheel and tire venting but forgot to mention it. Thanks for the advice.

I might try trimming the foam just because from what I've seen/read, it makes sense and looks easy.

I have Gorilla glue and was thinking of using it so good to hear it should work OK.

Oh, regarding the vent holes in the tires -- [tangent] why wouldn't they manufacture them with holes? [/tangent] -- is it best to make them in the center of the tread? Slits, diamond shaped, round...?

Thanks again.

I have no idea why tires don't come with holes punched in them.
I usually go for a round hole, and end up with a diamond shaped one.
I think it's worth noting that I put holes in all my tires and have never had one tear.

Hey - I'm finally getting caught up with this thread! Sounds like the car is nearing final completion - when did you want to race?

RC104ever wrote:Hey - I'm finally getting caught up with this thread! Sounds like the car is nearing final completion - when did you want to race?

Runners are never finished.

85Edinger wrote:I think it's worth noting that I put holes in all my tires and have never had one tear.

Definitely. That had crossed my mind as well. Nice to have you answering all of these questions.....even before I ask them.

So a couple of observations for anyone else stumbling upon this in the future since I actually feel this thread is very useful to someone in a similar situation to mine.

Trimming the foam is easy but tedious and I also feel very necessary. I don't see how the tire bead would fit the rim properly without a decent amount of trimming. I trimmed inside and outside edges of all four tires.

Glueing - don't use too much. I did. Looks crappy (glue expanded during curing and 'bubbled' out between the bead and rim), so I spent some time trimming and scraping the excess away with a very sharp x-acto knife. During this process I noticed the glue (Gorilla glue) adhered to the plastic very well but to the rubber poorly. As a result, I wouldn't recommend Gorilla glue. I'm skeptical as to how well it has adhered on the inside bead. I'll run it as-is and address any issues that might arise. I have another product from my days with BMW that came to mind......after the fact. I'll try it if I end up having to redo the whole job.

*Responded to Chris via PM. Hope to meet up locally. (FTR. Not ignoring)

I've used gorilla CA glue with good results. Was it CA glue?
Did you clean the tire bead with alcohol?

85Edinger wrote:I've used gorilla CA glue with good results. Was it CA glue?

Uhhhhh....yes? I don't know. No, it's their "original" formula. 100% waterproof...."bonds wood, stone, glass, plastic, foam and much more..." Maybe not rubber.

85Edinger wrote:Did you clean the tire bead with alcohol?

Ya I washed the wheels and tires with dish soap first which actually seemed to remove all of the mould release residue and they became really soft/tacky/'grippy' rubber. Entirely different rubber formula than the original tires. I then rubbed the bead down with alcohol and a Q-Tip.

Did you use this?
http://www.gorillatough.com/index.php?page=gorilla-glue
That's the wrong stuff.

I've used this with good results:
http://www.gorillatough.com/index.php?page=super-glue

Usually if a glue is a cyanoacrylate, it is called "super glue". If in doubt, check the label or the MSDS.

So yes, you used the wrong stuff. If it comes off, dremel the wheel bead clean, make sure the tire is clean, use alcohol on both, and redo the job with super glue or r/c specific CA.

85Edinger wrote:Did you use this?
http://www.gorillatough.com/index.php?page=gorilla-glue
That's the wrong stuff.

I've used this with good results:
http://www.gorillatough.com/index.php?page=super-glue

Usually if a glue is a cyanoacrylate, it is called "super glue". If in doubt, check the label or the MSDS.

So yes, you used the wrong stuff. If it comes off, dremel the wheel bead clean, make sure the tire is clean, use alcohol on both, and redo the job with super glue or r/c specific CA.

Yes that's exactly what I did and didn't use. Crrrrrappola

I'd better get it off and do it right. It's definitely brittle and, as I mentioned, doesn't appear to have adhered to the rubber very well. What a dummy.

Is the 6-gear the weakest link in preventing me from running more power? I think I've found a 6560 Stealth kit, NIP which I might get.

Or if I do this and run a more powerful motor, will other items just break (aside from impact)?

Just a big thanks to 85Edinger and everyone else helping out in this thread. I'm not the OP but I've definitely found it helpful.

From my limited experience, I was running a pretty powerfull motor in the 6 gear...(4 pole 4000kv) and my only problem was initially running the slipper too loose. Once I tightened it pretty much all the way I was good to go.
I don't know how long it would've lasted, cause I upgraded to the stealth soon after.....but it was fine while I had it.
If I was you,I'd buy the stealth kit while you have the chance to buy it whole, instead of trying to piece one together down the road which will cost more.

Edit...
As far as other items breaking......Nah, not in my experience.
These things are pretty damn durable.
Every time I go out riding, I always make the mistake of going for the speed run in the parking lot before I pack it up.....That's when the heinous cartwheels start....(drivers error....usually from running out of space, and trying to turn like a moron) .....The result though, zero breakage.