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do we know if we need warmer temps to use this method? It is winter here. I get sun but cold inside too.. I have some parts to whiten and wanted to start this week..

HI!... Use a UV light with the H/P. It works much better IMO.

THE H.P FREAK wrote:HI!... Use a UV light with the H/P. It works much better IMO.

The beauty of the window sill is IT,S FRREEEEE .99 cents for a bottle of sauce and some patience my lecky bills are astronomical (welder plasma cutter girders ) as it is and we are always playing catchup on the lecky bill .as for temp last years batch of whites spent most of the fall winter in the workshop window sill (no heating )and i saw no difference to this years batch (inside the house )

Paul

HI!... Well I've done both systems and letting the sun do it, did absolutely nothing IMO. But it has been Winter here. You can position the UV light directly over the bowl so 100% of the UV light hits the parts at point blank range. Plus mine is a florescent U.V light. Barely uses any hydro at all. Been on non stop for 3 months. Hydro bill has stayed the same.

ok i just figured out Ontario Canada LOL the sun only comes out twice a year so each to there own

edit opps forgot the JK

Thought I share this photo, all my nylon parts soaking in hydrogen peroxide. This is after I had the front end all cleaned and reassembled then I read the post about whitening the parts. Good practice, I bet I can assemble the front end quicker this time.

http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/

and

http://www.amibay.com/showthread.php?t=1480

Gives you instructions and the chemistry on why ABS plastics go yellow with age. The process uses a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and 'oxy clean', which is a U.K stain removing product and UV light.

I haven't tried it yet but it seems to work well on old yellowing computer parts

Nice bit of reading there-

What I'm eager to see this tried on are all the Tomy robots from the 80's as this happened to them with age as well.

super nintendo's also suffer badly from this. so did transformers

just read both the wiki and the forum what a cool write up, what you you guys in the states class as oxy? any pics. keen to find a similar product here in aus.

GJW wrote:just read both the wiki and the forum what a cool write up, what you you guys in the states class as oxy? any pics. keen to find a similar product here in aus.

Based on the pics on the recipe page http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/Retr0Bright+Gel NapiSan (the pink one) would work for the oxy booster.

I do recall reading up on the "retro bright" formula awhile back when whiting parts from my old Traxxas Hawk. Never used the recipe, but I had great results using a volume 30 peroxide used for hair bleaching (bought at a beauty supply store) Now this was done outside using the sun.

Now with my RC10T, being winter still here and crappy weather I did the UV bulb indoors. UVA bulb (non-fluorescent) to be exact.

These are the results from the other day, this was just using the brown bottle 3% H2O2 thats available @ your drugstores, etc.



It worked out great, more time consuming then the natural sun IMO (although I did use a lot stronger peroxide outdoors so hard to tell) This was 22-26 hrs of soaking with the UV lamp. Parts were pretty yellowed.

You can see some of the before pics in my thread in the RC10T section.

All these parts look incredible but I don't think they were ever stark white like this from Associated were they? So if you're doing it for a box build type restoration its incorrect. When I do mine I'm going to take them out before they get too white.

that's correct. none of the associated parts were EVER as white as guys are making them now. some of the yellowest parts i've ever seen were brand new in the package.