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i will take some pics with mip steering, then i will put the b2 steering back on and then take the comparitive pics
i will use photoshop to do an overlay/multiply merg of the two photos.

top one is mip steering bottom one is b2
the chassis on this car has been trimmed to let the arm stick out

notice that the inside is at different angles but the out side is the same...... what do you guys think?

mip

b2


chassis

Does it do that in both directions? Hard to tell for sure, but it looks like the crank arm is making contact with the center link.

aeiou wrote:Does it do that in both directions? Hard to tell for sure, but it looks like the crank arm is making contact with the center link.

crank arm still has about one 1/8" left before contact
and yes it does in both directions, not as bad this way tho
i am using outer b4 parts... are the steering arms a diff length on a b2????

Is this basicaly showing more vs less "ackerman" effect/angle?

What adjustments on the steering cranks cause the angles to be different? Some, like the mip, have only one set of holes, but others like the OE rc10 and rc-10 GT have multiple possible ballstud positions.

Does adjusting the center-link length have effects on the ackerman angle?

lowrydesign wrote:

aeiou wrote:Does it do that in both directions? Hard to tell for sure, but it looks like the crank arm is making contact with the center link.

crank arm still has about one 1/8" left before contact
and yes it does in both directions, not as bad this way tho
i am using outer b4 parts... are the steering arms a diff length on a b2????

RichieRich wrote:So for my next dumb question: Does anyone think using 1/8 x 1/4 bearings for the right side would be a good idea instead of reaming the hole?

Not a dumb question... I was wondering the exact same thing. The less chopping and reaming I have to do, the better off my finished product usually is. Anyone see any problem with just using a smaller bearing instead of reaming out the hole?

go get some bearings and try it. that's the only way to know for sure.

A question on the bearings is are they the same size as the bearings on the older RC10 wheels?

Yup

Whew!!!1 I put the kit on my mockup chassis and thought I had taken to many PERKS. thanks for clearing the question of having the tires goin at dif angles at lock. waiting for the cure Thanks JohnnySr.

I know this is an old thread...did we ever solve the ackerman issue?

I wasn't aware of an ackerman issue, per se. I know lowrydesign was trying to figure out why his car had more steering travel in one direction versus the other, but I don't know if he solved his issue or not. There aren't that many things that can cause something like that - it's usually pretty easy to figure out.

i think the problem with lowry's car is using the b4 steering knuckle in conjuction with this bellcrank setup. the ball stud seems too far back.

I've installed this setup in two cars and both have lock-to-lock steering.

Here's my original old/new runner. It uses B4 front end parts and the Dynotech arms. I dial out a tad of steering on this one because the wheels rub the front of these beefy arms otherwise. This is a newer team car runner build where I trimmed some of the chassis, versus notching out the bell cranks. Standard RC10 front end parts on this one. Hopefully, these shots will help anyone who's having setup issues.

How does this compare to the A&L bellcrank?
Also, the Associated nose plate screws are discontinued. Will these work?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBDGZ