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cas22 wrote: ↑Mon Apr 21, 2025 6:29 pm Found this reply from GOMACHV a few years back, he is in the thread and a quote from MYTIMAC who had a comment from Gil Losi Jr regarding the bell cranks.
https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=43012

This answer has never made sense to me. He says "since the arms are offset" but why were they designed offset in the first place?

Anyway, it sounds like it was a bit of an error that remained in place for the run of the JRX line until the XX series arrived.

Gotta love parts support from Losi, Thanks to Matt here in NZ I sourced Losi LOSA5023 (Shock spring clamps and cups), and Losi LOSA5015 (Double o ring cartridge) Not exactly the same but made the rebuild so easy.
Gave the bodies a clean and polish up with some brasso, and fitted them back together.
Did swap out the supplied 4-40 x 1/2" screw for stainless equivalents

Found these old Proline Wheels a while back and grabbed them, turns out they have a "dirtguard" which is simply a bit of lexan you need to cut out and fit internally, 2559 front wide, and 2660 Rears.
Liking the wheels, just having trouble finding 2" tyres to fit the wide front rims.
I got some JC rims in 2.2 that may have to go on instead.

Playing around with fitting a battery LiPo cradle, Sussed out the pair of rearward holes for the battery clamp aligned with the spacing for the cradle,
So i cut some carbon and made a strap across between the tailing arm mounting holes. (not used on the Pro)
And drilled/countersunk some M3 screws up to give a second mounting point.
used some 10mm and 12mm alloy spacers to level out the cradle, and will add some foams to even it out.

been having a few problems with the Rear hub pivot pins,
Only found one of the 4 required plastic "C" clips to hold the pin in the right place.
With age and wear those pins were trying to slide out on their own, without anything better to use, and trying to source those clips was not easy.
I had a bag of 316 control arm locators for Aircraft servo applications, obviously designed to have piano wire run through them and nipped down by the grub screw and attached to the servo horn via the M3 thread and nut.
The Bore was 1/8" (3.18mm) so i cut the stubs and threads off, smoothed off the face with the Dremel, and redrilled the holes 2.5mm, threaded to M3,
so a 6mm spacer I can nip up tight with 2 grub screws and loktite.
Tried using E clips, but just kept coming away. Used an alloy spacer on the other side, its M4 rather tham M3 but i had it handy,gets the job done and wont fall off

Was trial fitting some wing wire I bent up and couldn't figure out why it wasn't sitting parallel?
Checked the rough lengths, angles were square etc.
Turns out some Vintage Pukekohe dried Mud from Counties RC car club had wedged itself deep in the posts, simple green and soap didnt move it.
Had to drill it out.

https://www.countiesrc.co.nz/

I Worked out I was going there before I had my Road Car Drivers License, which was 15 in NZ at the time, just had my 50th, so I'm picking this must have been when I was 16 or 17? so 30 plus year old mud. Ross Northcote used to count the laps on an old laptop with coloured flags velcroed to our aerials
Should get it carbon dated.