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Very cool! That's what I want to use for wheels on mine so let me know what's adapters work on the front.

You could also take the bottom out of the battery cup to drop the pack a bit.

mikea96 wrote: ↑Tue Sep 10, 2024 10:34 am Very cool! That's what I want to use for wheels on mine so let me know what's adapters work on the front.

The plan was to use printed mockups to determine what metal units to buy, but I think I am probably just going to end up with printed units, so I won't know what available units will work. I know for the front, you will want the narrowest set you can get! If you go with the same adapter width all the way around, the front ends up about 20mm wider than the rear.

I don't know anything about Yokomo, but I am guessing they are metric. That ends up as a little issue with an RC10 based rear driveshaft. On my particular setup, I have 3/16" rear shafts with 1/16" roll pins, and 5mm front shafts with 2mm pins. This usually doesn't matter because the design premise here is that everything ends up 12mm hex at the wheel mount, and you can run any of the modern wheels. But if you are like me, and I think a couple of guys here are, you want to bring as much old as you can into your new build ............... so you want older style wheels. So to do this for this setup, I think you need custom adapters. If you end up at this point, and you are okay with printed adapters, just shoot me a message.



edit: For my set up, it took rear adapters that are 11mm overall, and fronts that are 4mm overall, to even it up front to back, and with an overall 240mm outer tire track. And ignore the weird caster in the pic, that is just the camera.

Yeah I was just going to use the standard rc10 yokomo rear wheel adapters then figure out what to use for the front.

morrisey0 wrote: the front ends up about 20mm wider than the rear.

oh wow, with the wheels I recommend we are 5mm wider at the front, 2.5mm per side. 250mm front and 245mm rear.

I have seen this thread around, but I finally had the time to read it from beginning to now. What a cool build! I really love all the details you showed about getting things to fit just right. That stuff can take so much time to get just right. I'm jealous of your design and 3D printing abilities. If you are concerned with the belt rubbing the battery, GoMachV has a good idea about cutting the holder to drop the height.

I'm glad you got the wheel widths sorted. I really dislike wider front wheels. It just doesn't look right to me. Keep up the great work and thanks for sharing.

GoMachV wrote: ↑Tue Sep 10, 2024 11:27 am You could also take the bottom out of the battery cup to drop the pack a bit.

I thought about this a couple of times, but in my head, my thought was "well I don't want to cut a pristine battery tray." But then remembered that this is a modern, easily replaceable tray. I do sometimes think this nylon is original old school. I will definitely cut and lower the tray a bit.

Lavigna wrote: ↑Wed Sep 11, 2024 9:18 pm What a cool build! I really love all the details you showed about getting things to fit just right. That stuff can take so much time to get just right.

Coming from someone that I know puts LOADS of time into their builds, I appreciate the comment! I will say that there is more time into the details here than it comes across as, and it is nice that that is recognized. A couple of the simple steps above have hours of work between them. But I will say that the most time was spent procrastinating drilling the chassis! From being ready to drill until actually drilling was probably 4+ hours! I found myself coming up with other things to do over and over, which was really just an excuse of being scared to drill into the chassis.

But back onto the subject of small details to work out, I have a new one. The bellcranks are hitting / locking up on the front transmission. I took a couple of simple, compass based, measurements on a couple of rigs here, and I am just going to call the average around 30* steering each way. This really depends on the bellcrank design though, as I have one car that is ~20* on the outer wheel, while ~40* on the inner wheel. Without the front trans in place, the FR01 with FTW bellcrank does about 30* each way, with the inner being a little tighter, but not much. With the trans in place, I hit at about 20*. It's just more working around a foundation that this kit isn't meant for.

I am going to try a couple of things to counter this. A) space the trans up and back a little. This isn't as easy as it sounds with the way the trans is mounted, but I will come up with something. This should bring the trans back closer to the position is should be on an aluminum pan (helping with belt height and length). Problem is I think I am going to hit the bottom of the shock tower, so that may need a little "adjustment." B) it looks like I am going to have to cut a little on the inside corner of the bellcranks. I don't think this will be an issue and they are really beefy. I may also look into dropping the bellcranks down a little, as there is an easy 3mm of clearance under them, and that may help the whole situation a bit.

This evening I made just a little change to the bellcrank mounts, and it resulted in fixing probably 75% of my steering radius issue. I honestly thought this part of the fix would have the least result, but it did wonders. I ended up printing new bellcrank nuts/ mounts, but this is not necessary, as you can easily modify the original mounts and make them work. I really don't want this to turn into a print-heavy build, and it come across that you can only make it work easily if you have access to printed parts, so at least so far, all the parts I have ended up printing can easily be substituted by using spacers / washers, or modifying what you already have.

Originally, I had ~3mm between the bellcranks and the chassis, and I wanted to get this down to about 1mm. So first, I replaced the flanged 1/4x3/8 lower bearings with non-flanged bearings. They fit great and poke out just a hair beyond flush with the crank, which is perfect. Just doing this eliminates .9mm, so we are almost half way there. At this point, you will need to shave off a little of the top portion of the "shaft" part of the mount, and you want to end up with just just long enough to barely stick out of the top of the bellcrank. You want to be about to thread on the top plastic nut and it tighten up while allowing the cranks to swing smoothly, with no real endplay.

The rest can be done by shaving down the lower "nut" portion of the mount. It is originally about 2.1mm thick, so if you get this down to 1mm thick, a total of 2mm clearance has been eliminated. Sand, file, grind, whatever method you want to shave it down. As an add, since the clearance between the cranks and chassis will be so small now, you may want to grind down on the ballstud threads that are sticking out of the bottom of the bellcranks.

But with this, the question is did I need that extra clearance from a functionality standpoint? Will it now scrape and be an issue? TBD.

It hit me today that I need to finish this vehicle very soon, or I never will. I started looking at the body, and trimmed and test fitted the stock Turbo Mirage body, and really just didn't like it. It has been stated, and I will agree, the body quality is meh, and I didn't really like how it fit overall, especially at the wing tubes. So, I hit the stash looking at alternatives ............ and from across the room, a body called out to me! I bought this Protector body when they first came out, and painted it and experimented with clear backed decals that never worked, and then just sat it on a runner that I built that I have never run. It fits so much better, and the color is a crazy happy accident! Time to make up some decals!! Oh, this was also the body that I learned the "never ream the front hole where the body is marked" lesson, so it has a nasty front hole that I have to hide somehow.

I dig it!

Needs fire engine logos and a retro fire engine driver decal. Maybe a gold wing.

Looks great, if your looking for inspiration this is what it immediately brought up in my mind.