RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Fri Nov 24, 2023 11:28 pm Regardless of brand, I use Tamiya AW grease on all my CVD's. It looks to be a moly-graphite type grease, similar to CRC assembly lube (but thicker).

I think I just used the Tamiya AW grease, it was included with my M-06 kit.


I ran out of the Tamiya kit grease, so I just ordered more now that I know that it's called, Anti Wear, thanks @juicedcoupe !


As for the GT, what a mess.






There's (3) stripped screws in this pic, that are preventing me from removing the Stealth and the engine, the stripped screws were dremel'd to turn them in to a flat head, to get them in there, but they won't come out that way. Will have to drill the heads off these, tomorrow, had it with this mess for tonight.

Back to this mess.


I looked all through every box I have here, I have no more #6474 Shock Spring Clamps. There was a full set in this GT box, but I used those clamps on the RC10 Stealth CE.

I can find the white clamps for sale on eBay, but not the black clamps. I searched every term I could think of, even the cross compatible cars, T2 and B2, nothing out there for black clamps, or #6474.

My USA-1 has (8) clamps on it, but I don't want to take them from there.


I'll have to leave the slip on clips until I can find the clamps somewhere.


Time to drill out these 20 year old stripped screws, get cleaned and organized, and finally put things right.

Started around noon today, from here.


Everything was a mess. The Rx was even full.




Stripped screws, from 20 years ago.


Remove head and pull start. Engine turns over like new still.


Got the (1) screw holding the Stealth in finally.


Bottom left screw holding engine in.


Finally got the engine mount screws out.




Clean chassis.


After nearly 7 hours of cleaning and working on this.


Need to pull the front end apart, rebuild the Stealth, and clean and rebuild the engine. Servos and linkage need some cleaning still too. Feels like a long way to go still, but the hard part is over now.

The disc brake fiber-pad was stripped of its hex pattern that secures it on the clutch and stops the engine. The fiber pad then cracked when I was trying to remove it.


The clutch plate was on there incredibly tight.


Used a spoon to pry the disc off.


Stealth looked really good in there.


Time to clean, lube, and rebuild.

Cleaned and lubed.


Stealth completed.


When the the brake disc stripped, so did the hex nut on the clutch. Replacement brake disc is on the way, ordering new hex adapter now.


Front end rebuild, shocks, and engine are next.

Box landed on the doorstep today.


Inside the box.






Cleaner and fresher than the one I already own. All its parts are in order and like new. The rear tires are Losi, and the only non-original part.

Could not have have purchased all these parts separately for anywhere near what I got this for, couldn't pass this up for $120. I have a second brand new engine, multiple pipes/headers, everything to make two complete GT's now.

I'll finish with my current GT, and begin on this second one in here, as this is the exact same #7065 black pan/plastics truck as my original.

Shocks still need a full cleaning and oil change, the engine still needs cleaning and overhaul, and there's a new throttle/brake linkage kit on the way, can't leave that old one on there.

Front end, steering, and servos cleaned.


Shocks, and engine left to do still.

Rebuilt the shocks.


Sorted through the engines, headers, and pipes.








This one was run the hardest, but the piston and cylinder walls look good still. One way bearing is still locking correctly.


Never used my stock header and pipe, will most likely use the NOS kit for the new GT.


Went to rebuild the MIP Shiny CVD, and the allen wrench was so small for the coupling kit grub screw, that I didn't have it in any of my tool kits.


As luck would have it, my US Fender Stratocaster toolkit had the allen wrench for the bridge saddles, that are the same size as the MIP coupling grub screw.


After 20 years, my GT now has two working CVD's!


Put in many hours, so many the day turned in to night. I made it to the mile marker I was looking for, with the CVD's.


The new bolt/screw kit worked out really well, there was a lot of destroyed hardware on this.

If you intend to run the motors the pinch at the top of the sleeve is the main thing your looking for.

You can definitely tell the engines that have had Blue Thunder run through them.

RC10th wrote: ↑Sat Dec 02, 2023 1:34 am If you intend to run the motors the pinch at the top of the sleeve is the main thing your looking for.

You can definitely tell the engines that have had Blue Thunder run through them.

Would you have a pic of the pinch at the top of the sleeve, that you're talking about?

These engines both always had Blue Thunder 20% run through them. Thanks @RC10th!

Getting there on the original GT. Have to wait for the replacement disc brake pad to get here, can't put the engine in without it.


The new to me GT on the right came with everything but the Rx, body, and engine.


Have the stock body for it, the engine, and not sure about the Rx just yet.


The new GT will get the engine on the left with the red head.

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Sat Dec 02, 2023 2:40 am

RC10th wrote: ↑Sat Dec 02, 2023 1:34 am If you intend to run the motors the pinch at the top of the sleeve is the main thing your looking for.

You can definitely tell the engines that have had Blue Thunder run through them.

Would you have a pic of the pinch at the top of the sleeve, that you're talking about?

These engines both always had Blue Thunder 20% run through them. Thanks @RC10th!

Well, it's not something that you can literally see but you can feel it as you turn the flywheel. The pinch is the tight spot when the piston is near the top of the sleeve. Normally an engine that is worn out won't idle when warm.

RC10th wrote: ↑Sun Dec 03, 2023 8:55 pm Well, it's not something that you can literally see but you can feel it as you turn the flywheel. The pinch is the tight spot when the piston is near the top of the sleeve. Normally an engine that is worn out won't idle when warm.

Thanks for the clarification, sounds like I'm ok for the moment.

I may have a stripped head bolt though. Have you ever had to repair that condition on a .12 size motor?

The head of the bolt is stripped or the threads in the engine case are stripped?