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I wasn’t the other bidder but I was looking at it until the last. It was a good looking t2 and I have a soft spot for them.

JosephS wrote: ↑Sun Apr 16, 2023 9:57 pm I wasn’t the other bidder but I was looking at it until the last. It was a good looking t2 and I have a soft spot for them.

Gotcha. They are way cool. My brother has an RC10GT and a truck converted RC10 buggy, I think an RC10DS also, I have the Team Car that I'm still finishing, and my daughter has an RC10T3, so the T2 definitely fills an open spot in the family fleet. Plus the T2 aluminum tub chassis on them is just too cool.

On another note, did some interweb surfing and tire shopping last night. Found a set of 4, brand new, never mounted Duratrax Evader EXT2 tires for less than $25 shipped. Cool tread pattern too, IMO.

Mwildmann wrote: ↑Mon Apr 17, 2023 9:59 am

JosephS wrote: ↑Sun Apr 16, 2023 9:57 pm I wasn’t the other bidder but I was looking at it until the last. It was a good looking t2 and I have a soft spot for them.

Gotcha. They are way cool. My brother has an RC10GT and a truck converted RC10 buggy, I think an RC10DS also, I have the Team Car that I'm still finishing, and my daughter has an RC10T3, so the T2 definitely fills an open spot in the family fleet. Plus the T2 aluminum tub chassis on them is just too cool.

On another note, did some interweb surfing and tire shopping last night. Found a set of 4, brand new, never mounted Duratrax Evader EXT2 tires for less than $25 shipped. Cool tread pattern too, IMO.

s-l500.jpg

I like that the t2 had a one of a kind aluminum chassis. It's quite a bit sturdier and lighter than the 10t chassis despite having the same suspension. The 2.6 drive train handles power easier than the 2.25 stealth. t4/gt diff upgrades work on the t2. It's pretty easy to find affordable outdrives and diff rebuilds. t4 cvd's work as well. NIP arms are easy to find and not expensive. There are so many upsides to the T2 as a vintage runner.

4 Tires for $25 shipped in a good deal. Quality tires for that price is excellent.

JosephS wrote: ↑Mon Apr 17, 2023 12:59 pm
I like that the t2 had a one of a kind aluminum chassis. It's quite a bit sturdier and lighter than the 10t chassis despite having the same suspension. The 2.6 drive train handles power easier than the 2.25 stealth. t4/gt diff upgrades work on the t2. It's pretty easy to find affordable outdrives and diff rebuilds. t4 cvd's work as well. NIP arms are easy to find and not expensive. There are so many upsides to the T2 as a vintage runner.

4 Tires for $25 shipped in a good deal. Quality tires for that price is excellent.

Those tires are on EBay btw, should be easy to find if anyone else is in the market...although now that I've said that I better go buy a set.
Thank you for that info! That will come in handy for sure.

Just picked up those Evader EXT2 tires from the PowerHobby website and it was even than the Ebay deal. Ended up less than $19 to my door. How awesome is that?!?!

https://www.powerhobby.com/dtxc9682.html

I also posted this in the "What did you get in the post today?" thread but figured I'd throw a couple pics up here also. I love this truck already. Threw a new set of Anderson PowerPole connectors on the ESC to match my batteries (been using them for literally over 25 years) and took it out for some fun in the driveway. Quick and nimble, super fun to drive. I love it.

I gots a question for you all. Decided I'm not going to reuse the yellow dish wheels with the new Evader tires cause I don't like 'em. Figured I'd do a 12mm hex conversion and ran across this: https://aircastlesolutions.com/products/12mm-adapter-kit-vintage-rc10-b2-b3-b4-and-vintage-rc10t-t2-t3-t4.

And then I found these nice lookin wheels from Kyosho: https://www.ebay.com/itm/294767074833?hash=item44a17c9e11:g:bIMAAOSwUlJh71A~&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwDU%2BuexjD0MnbSt8RBTwQFhc96uWIuVABJ2HuKi%2FBioQjpmKZfvVNcjwc4aQmNuUMgbyZBnMXSQ3MzPWVOYKGLUDknn8UJdaRuTi4zElwOnBAIfZTdafxCljhSAG4xsGz6sfIv0xj4NtKAK6CULMAOgJzOyhgODpspp12EhkrZDEVlWqjTaPsaMvt%2FuZoD67s5Wqb35%2BvY%2FkC2m3f91oGf2K4xPtEFWxau6Uvns048FkspMpxrIeADz8UcxVfD%2F3VQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8yrvoD4YQ.

Are there any fitment problems that any of you might know about with these parts?

Thanks!

Those front adapters like that are a poor option.

I chose to use cheap Traxxas parts for a couple of mine. Its a few mm narrower than stock but really isn't noticeable.

If your truck has 3/16 axles, those hexes should work. As should any hex for a 3/16 axle.

If you have 1/4 axles, Factory Works makes an aluminum hex.




If you do have 3/16 axles JConcepts and JC Racing has wheels.

For 1/4 axles, JC Racing has full sets. Factory Works may still have some rears that could be used with JConcepts fronts.

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Wed Apr 26, 2023 8:27 pm Those front adapters like that are a poor option.
I chose to use cheap Traxxas parts for a couple of mine. Its a few mm narrower than stock but really isn't noticeable.
If your truck has 3/16 axles, those hexes should work. As should any hex for a 3/16 axle.
If you have 1/4 axles, Factory Works makes an aluminum hex.
If you do have 3/16 axles JConcepts and JC Racing has wheels.
For 1/4 axles, JC Racing has full sets. Factory Works may still have some rears that could be used with JConcepts fronts.

It looks like I have 3/16" axles front and rear. What traxxas parts are you referring to? I think I'd like to try and convert to 12mm hexes honestly.

I do like those spoked wheels from JC Racing.

Thanks for the help!

You can swap the entire caster and steering block arrangement from a Traxxas Bandit with a little grinding. Just use the wider truck axles and wide hexes.

You can also use the parts from a Stampede, Slash, or Rustler, but they require a little more work.

Mwildmann wrote: ↑Wed Apr 26, 2023 9:31 pm

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Wed Apr 26, 2023 8:27 pm Those front adapters like that are a poor option.
I chose to use cheap Traxxas parts for a couple of mine. Its a few mm narrower than stock but really isn't noticeable.
If your truck has 3/16 axles, those hexes should work. As should any hex for a 3/16 axle.
If you have 1/4 axles, Factory Works makes an aluminum hex.
If you do have 3/16 axles JConcepts and JC Racing has wheels.
For 1/4 axles, JC Racing has full sets. Factory Works may still have some rears that could be used with JConcepts fronts.

It looks like I have 3/16" axles front and rear. What traxxas parts are you referring to? I think I'd like to try and convert to 12mm hexes honestly.

I do like those spoked wheels from JC Racing.

Thanks for the help!

You may want to think a bit before going to hex conversion.
If you are running or plan to run modern trucks it makes sense to go hex. This lets you swap wheels easily between new and old cars.

If you aren't planning on other modern runners, it makes a lot of sense to just stay on pins. J-concepts , as noted by juicedcoupe, make high quality wheels for pined rc10t's (gt,2,3,4.0). They fit modern tires and don't cost any more than other modern wheels.

I converted my t2 to pins then wound up collecting a bunch of other vintage trucks that I just kept as pins.

Just something to think about.

I have five 10T's and a E-GT. Only two are hex and I'm considering converting them back to be more original.

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Thu Apr 27, 2023 12:18 am I have five 10T's and a E-GT. Only two are hex and I'm considering converting them back to be more original.

JosephS wrote: ↑Wed Apr 26, 2023 11:57 pm You may want to think a bit before going to hex conversion.
If you are running or plan to run modern trucks it makes sense to go hex. This lets you swap wheels easily between new and old cars.

If you aren't planning on other modern runners, it makes a lot of sense to just stay on pins. J-concepts , as noted by juicedcoupe, make high quality wheels for pined rc10t's (gt,2,3,4.0). They fit modern tires and don't cost any more than other modern wheels.

I converted my t2 to pins then wound up collecting a bunch of other vintage trucks that I just kept as pins.

Just something to think about.

Thanks for the advice guys.

Just one last thing and I'll be settled on way or the other because I've got some 12mm wheels that I'd love to use and also found pin/bearing wheels that I like enough also. The rear conversion is easy, NBD. I also found these for the front which also may simplify things, obviously for 5mm axles but 5mm is so darn close to the 3/16" that I need. https://www.horizonhobby.com/product/12-hex-bearing-conversion-front-adapter/HRATGH10BF08.html. I know they're out of stock currently but I can wait a bit if this is a reasonable option. Thoughts?

Mwildmann wrote: ↑Thu Apr 27, 2023 9:52 am
I also found these for the front which also may simplify things, obviously for 5mm axles but 5mm is so darn close to the 3/16" that I need. https://www.horizonhobby.com/product/12-hex-bearing-conversion-front-adapter/HRATGH10BF08.html. I know they're out of stock currently but I can wait a bit if this is a reasonable option. Thoughts?

In terms of bearing race clearance, 3/16 is a mile away from 5mm. A 5mm bearing is outright sloppy on a 3/16 axle.
But just like the earlier kit, that type of hex conversion is a poor design. All are poor fitting and sloppy, and they put the load on the wrong spot of the bearings.

It may be alright on a shelf car. But it's likely to break in short order on a offroad truck, and hopefully it doesn't screw up your axle and caster block with it.

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Thu Apr 27, 2023 10:43 am In terms of bearing race clearance, 3/16 is a mile away from 5mm. A 5mm bearing is outright sloppy on a 3/16 axle.

Screenshot_20230427_093122_Gallery.jpg

But just like the earlier kit, that type of hex conversion is a poor design. All are poor fitting and sloppy, and they put the load on the wrong spot of the bearings.

It may be alright on a shelf car. But it's likely to break in short order on a offroad truck, and hopefully it doesn't screw up your axle and caster block with it.

Nuff said. Thank you, I was worried about slop and the small difference in 5mm bearing/3/16" axle diameter becomes much more pronounced over the height of the tire. I'm done with trying to convert the front then and likely will leave the rear pin drive also.