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As far as the blue arms go, I'd just dye them black.

Black dye is typically found in the craft section off Walmart for a few dollars. The graphite is a little better but harder to find.

Rlayman wrote: ↑Sat Feb 11, 2023 12:46 pm The blue arms will go. Going to install the new carbon arms, but the shocks are kind of a stumper right now. May ditch the blue ball cups as well. See how this evolves.

What will you be using the truck for? The RPM arms are really good for bashing since they're flexible as a limp noodle and take a lot to break/crack. The T4 carbon arms are very light but have zero flex and no forgiveness on any impact, therefore break very easily. The T4 plastic arms of course are much more forgiving on impacts than the carbon, but still break much easier than the RPM arms. Nothing against the RPM arms because they're great for what they're designed for, but I'm just not a fan of them on my T4 basher (honestly I probably should be), hints why I have about a dozen sets of the AE plastic arms.

R6cowboy wrote: ↑Sun Feb 12, 2023 9:01 am

Rlayman wrote: ↑Sat Feb 11, 2023 12:46 pm The blue arms will go. Going to install the new carbon arms, but the shocks are kind of a stumper right now. May ditch the blue ball cups as well. See how this evolves.

What will you be using the truck for? The RPM arms are really good for bashing since they're flexible as a limp noodle and take a lot to break/crack. The T4 carbon arms are very light but have zero flex and no forgiveness on any impact, therefore break very easily. The T4 plastic arms of course are much more forgiving on impacts than the carbon, but still break much easier than the RPM arms. Nothing against the RPM arms because they're great for what they're designed for, but I'm just not a fan of them on my T4 basher (honestly I probably should be), hints why I have about a dozen sets of the AE plastic arms.

Probably going to shelf it. Not a scratch on the chassis. I have all carbon arms for it, and the milled blue motor plate is in almost pristine condition. I enjoy the hunt of the cool looking parts, the tear down and rebuild. Got an Arrma granite 4x4 for 160$ just before Christmas. Fun basher for sure.

I'm a fan of big bore springs on V2 shocks

These came. Think these will look good on the truck. Are these considered v2 shocks? Are the rebuild kits/ seals the same?

The big bores are still V2 design. The smaller o rings are the same but the ones on the cap are bigger.

So, I’m just about finished with this, but I’m trying to get the front axels, pt# 7854, with no luck. Is there another part I can swap out for to have front hex?? Was trying for the T4.2. Thought the gullwing front arms looked cool. But having second thoughts since I’m pretty sure there isn’t a body out there to fit. So, wondering how to complete this. Go back to the FT T4 but with hex axels I guess. Can someone explain the difference in trailing axels vs. the T4 regular axels?

Rlayman wrote: ↑Thu Dec 28, 2023 1:21 pm So, I’m just about finished with this, but I’m trying to get the front axels, pt# 7854, with no luck. Is there another part I can swap out for to have front hex??

There sure is, modified rear axles. I've used/modified part # 9670 a couple times. Just need to hack off the end where the dogbones insert, then grind it down enough to clear the front caster blocks when turning, and touch up with black paint. It's fairly simple if you have access to a hacksaw, grinding wheel and about 120 or 180 grit sandpaper to smooth out sharp edges. This was the route I took a couple times after searching for pt# 7854 forever.
I could remove one and post a picture for reference if interested...? It's possible I have an extra pair of rear axles to spare, but will have to dig through my large B4/T4 box of parts to be sure.

Rlayman wrote: ↑Thu Dec 28, 2023 1:21 pm Can someone explain the difference in trailing axels vs. the T4 regular axels?

The first versions of the B/T4 had traditional front axles and bearings in the wheels, which had trailing (vs inline) caster blocks. Later models used hex wheels, also used a trailing design. But when listed as trailing axles or caster blocks, they are referred to the original design.

On vehicles with trailing type caster blocks, the front axles are positioned behind the kingpins, trailing them.

On vehicles with inline caster blocks, the front axles are on the same plane (inline with) the kingpins or shoulder screws (depending on design).

The original RC10 used trailing style blocks, with later versions (Team Car, late CE, Graphite, 10T, B/T2, and B/T3) using the inline arrangement. Then the B/T4 went back to the trailing design.