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I'm also considering changing to a semi-laydown rear shock setup with a lower shock tower position, as long as it doesn't obstruct the motor removal. This would also allow me to change from mid to rear motor configuration on a whim.

This is not the battery box I'm using, just a placeholder for layout mockups.
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Question: Are there any RC10 bodies being produced that also have a matching undertray?

The only undertray that I'm aware of matches the aluminum chassis shape, not any specific body.

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Wed Oct 20, 2021 11:16 am The only undertray that I'm aware of matches the aluminum chassis shape, not any specific body.

Do you know who makes that undertray?

Frankentruck wrote: ↑Thu Oct 21, 2021 9:15 am

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Wed Oct 20, 2021 11:16 am The only undertray that I'm aware of matches the aluminum chassis shape, not any specific body.

Do you know who makes that undertray?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/team-associated-rc10-classic-chassis-protectors-MADE-IN-AMERICA-clear-paintable-/203046018060?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

The YZ10 undertray will fit an AE Viper body. It just needs to be trimmed at the back - it's too long otherwise.
The front 2/3 of the undertray fits the Viper body shape very well. We use this combination for Stealth '91 builds.
I hope this was helpful. Here's a link...

https://teambluegroove.com/collections/yokomo/products/yokomo-works-worlds-yz10-undertray-super-dog-fighter-pavadis

The suspension is taking shape. I ended up with a T2 rear shock tower because it gave me a better motor wire path to where the ESC will be. Also, I just happen to have one. Availability is one of the best abilities. After a couple of iterations on the attachment knuckles I've got something that the rear shocks seem to agree with. I need to work on the combination rear bulkhead / battery cradle so I can finalize the rear. The front also got a first pass at its shock mount. I need to think more about how to limit the front arm travel so the shock can do its job and not just be a link that pushes and pulls the arms back and forth, jukin' and jivin' against the direction the buggy is being steered.
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R6cowboy helped me out with a set of front axles before I even realized I needed to shop for a set. Much thanks for the assist. I did a quick mod to them so I have the option of using them as standard width or wide width.

I also printed up a set a steering bellcranks. I really really really don't want to spend $30 on a set. They seem like such a generally overpriced item to me.
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Frankentruck wrote: ↑Fri Oct 29, 2021 6:53 pm They seem like such a generally overpriced item to me.

Anyone with $20k for an injection mold and $1k for a run can make em. AE worlds cranks work great, and could be had for almost nothing, unfortunately they don’t think it’s worthwhile to make them anymore. This is why you see the printed ones, because to do it right is both expensive and not worthwhile.

I'm not disputing that the machinery is expensive, but for the size, relatively simple shape, etc compared to suspension arms, shock towers, gearbox cases, bumpers, etc the bell cranks have always seemed like they commanded a premium price. It's just the penny pincher in me.

Just to be clear, these bellcranks are from my 3D printer. If they aren't any good, I might iterate on the design or seek out a better set from a proven maker. But for now, they might work good enough.

GoMachV wrote: ↑Fri Oct 29, 2021 8:43 pm

Frankentruck wrote: ↑Fri Oct 29, 2021 6:53 pm They seem like such a generally overpriced item to me.

Anyone with $20k for an injection mold and $1k for a run can make em. AE worlds cranks work great, and could be had for almost nothing, unfortunately they don’t think it’s worthwhile to make them anymore. This is why you see the printed ones, because to do it right is both expensive and not worthwhile.

It's possible now to cut costs by 3D printing the injection mold.

(Though I really dont know if the pressure the 3d printed molds can take is good enough for RC parts)

They wouldn't even need to be made from injection molded plastic. A nice rigid set could be made from 1/8" thick fiberglass or carbon fiber sheet stock. That should have less product-specific tooling and batch run costs.

The shock tower support / battery cradle is done. Still need to drill the chassis mount holes but location will be close to what is shown. Front tie rod connection bulkhead is also ready for installation.
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I just noticed my bellcranks were laying in the wrong position. In the right position they make contact with my front bulkhead. Oops. I guess one of the parts will need to change, or I'll need an extra high torque steering servo.
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I noticed that they were backwards in your photo, but I figured that you knew what you were doing. Therefore I said nothing. Maybe you wanted tons of bump steer, I don't know. But, your progress is looking good!