RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Lavigna wrote: ↑Fri Feb 12, 2021 7:25 pm I really wanted to use this Trinity brace, but the color was just too far off from the rest of the blue. Such a shame.

Thats Losi blue, otherwise known as "blue".

You could always send it out to get anodized. Granted a single part wouldn't be cheap, but it would match.

Stunning build!

Ive got a t3 rtr version coming in a few days, but looks like it needs a bit of work (I sold an old kyosho lazer zx on ebay and it went for silly money, and I got excited when I finally found an rc10t... even though it cost me not far off what the new 6.1 would cost!!)

Anyway, where did you get the titanium turnbuckles from? Im looking for some for mind but cant find them anywhere, parts in the UK for the t3 seem to be even rarer than my original rc10 worlds parts!

You can get t3 turnbuckles directly from Lunsford.

^ Crezo - These blue titanium turnbuckle are AE FT units that actually came with the FT (Factory Team) version of the truck. The T3 was offered in 4 different versions, with the FT being the most premium offered. The turnbuckle can be purchased separately as AE FT option parts.

I was lucky to receive these OG T3 decals.

I had to take a quick picture of it next to a XXT. Both have a decent amount of blue bling.

Very nice build. I appreciate you adding the bagged photos of the upgrade parts. They are a nice reference for T3 parts.

That’s one bad A$$ FT T3 ! Can’t wait to see it completed.

If you run it, the blue aluminum outdrives may be gouged quickly. Do the instructions for the outdrives recommend some form of plastic covered pin (e.g. Schumacher U1918 blades or a thinner MIP puck) as an alternative to the steel driveshaft pin?

An example of a gouged outdrive can be found in the third picture of the following post.

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=45959

Typpo wrote: ↑Wed Feb 24, 2021 11:34 am If you run it, the blue aluminum outdrives may be gouged quickly. Do the instructions for the outdrives recommend some form of plastic covered pin (e.g. Schumacher U1918 blades or a thinner MIP puck) as an alternative to the steel driveshaft pin?

An example of a gouged outdrive can be found in the third picture of the following post.

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=45959

Thanks for the heads up. If I run it I will probably replace the outdrives. They seem very delicate and I would imagine they would gouge very quickly. Also their opening for the pins is very tight. I had to file down the MIP pins just to get them to fit in the outdrives.

I think I will put some vintage electronics in this truck and keep it as a shelfer.

Front and rear springs installed. I also added some electronics. I'm not sure if they are era correct, or really go with this truck, but I thought they looked nice.

I replaced the aluminum MIP CVDs with some steel units. I polished them up to look like chrome.

I have some HPI wheels for the truck. Coming soon.

I added a few goodies to this truck. Dragon front brace looks pretty cool imho. RPM steering.

I was thinking that RC10T skinny front wheels & tires would look good on this truck. I know it isn't accurate, but I may try it.

Yet another stunning build!

You set the bar at nearly unobtainable levels for us mere mortals

Can't wait to see the body (no pressure).

Chuck

Lavigna wrote: ↑Wed Jan 26, 2022 12:11 am I was thinking that RC10T skinny front wheels & tires would look good on this truck. I know it isn't accurate, but I may try it.

The matching rear wheels fit 1/4" axles, not the 3/16" that you have.

Looking sharp

Too bad you couldn't find some of the jconcepts j82 wheels like the ones on the buggy/truggy on the right.