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I had to quickly check, that must be a con rod out of the turbo version?

RC10th wrote: ↑Sat Dec 19, 2020 11:20 pm I had to quickly check, that must be a con rod out of the turbo version?

Conrod in the parts bag is the correct one for the S15R and S15R2, according to the manuals...

What, U1104G is the correct rod listed for both models?

Must be a production update then.

RC10th wrote: ↑Sat Dec 19, 2020 11:40 pm What, U1104G is the correct rod listed for both models?

Must be a production update then.

U1104G is the listed part number for the Conrod for Nitro 10 mk1, mk2, Daytona and Nitro 4x4.....

Whether there was a part update, but Schumacher decided not to change the part number, or whether someone broke their conrod, and replaced it with what they could find, very hard to say

Engine #2.....



Yummy.....

More yummy.

What in the world is going on there? Gummed up and then dried out over a decade or two?

I would say water in the fuel combined with a bit of rust.

The sleeve is proving extremely difficult to remove without ruining it, so it is soaking overnight to hopefully free it up. bloody nitro...

Incredible_Serious wrote: ↑Sun Dec 20, 2020 1:07 am What in the world is going on there? Gummed up and then dried out over a decade or two?

Obviously, it’s been a smoker for 30+ years.

Here’s a couple pictures of the sheet that came with my engine. Don’t know if any of it is relative to your engine or not but here you go regardless.

Ummm... so you have to turn your head....I don’t know why it spun the image 90°

Alex would have to chime in if it's the same or not.

romulus22 wrote: ↑Sun Dec 20, 2020 3:56 pm Ummm... so you have to turn your head....I don’t know why it spun the image 90°

Probably because people into these things must be a bit special

RC10th wrote: ↑Sun Dec 20, 2020 7:17 pm Alex would have to chime in if it's the same or not.

Interesting information for certain, but hard to tell much... Schumacher gave all the parts different numbers, and the pictures are probably just enough detail to identify it as an engine . Could be slightly taller in the body, perhaps... more strengthening on the output side, and maybe a larger carb. mounting area...

RC10th wrote: ↑Sun Dec 20, 2020 7:17 pm

romulus22 wrote: ↑Sun Dec 20, 2020 3:56 pm Ummm... so you have to turn your head....I don’t know why it spun the image 90°

Probably because people into these things must be a bit special

Hey! I resemble that remark!

Well......

After 1 day, 37 hours, and 64 minutes, I finally got the sleeve out !!!!


I can honestly say in all my years of RC and years as a professional RC mechanic that was by far the hardest sleeve I've ever had to remove without ruining it. It took all the tricks in the book and was nearly on the verge of being completely destroyed I wish it had come out "cleaner" but I'm sure it will still turn out nice. At least the piston doesn’t pop out the top of the sleeve and the chrome still looks nice.

The rod resembles an OS rod with subtle diffences.

I unknowingly damaged the case slightly. That part of the case couldn't be too strong if it broke like that while using a cut down toothbrush as a punch You'd never know once the damaged part was dressed and the engine was back together, but since the mounting ear was already damaged I think I'll use the case from the other engine as it's in better shape, plus I like the "clicker" carb better


The rear bearing is shot but the front bearing is still perfect. I might see if fast eddy do a bearing kit for these.

While we have these things apart we may as well compare the differences.

Mk1 case on the left, Mk2 on the right.
Interesting to note that the Mk1 case only has a pinch bolt to mount the carb wheras the Mk2 has both a pinch bolt and screw provisions. The Mk2 uses the screw method and has plastic plugs that fit into the pinch bolt holes to seal it off.


MK1 on left, Mk2 on right
The Mk1 has a much smaller throat compared to the Mk2.


Mk1 on left, Mk2 on right
The Mk1 has an older "clicker" type high speed needle while the Mk2 uses a later car style needle. It's also interesting to note that while the physical diameter of the carb bases are vastly different in size, the venturi hole in both are exactly the same size at .255," so basically 1/4"


Mk1 on left, Mk2 on right
Although fairly hard to see in my photo the Mk2 flywheel has a slight groove machined in it while the Mk1 does not. I can only assume this is just for a bit of clearance for the brake shoe pivot screw.