The pain was part of the fun with a 34 years old car I guess !XLR8 wrote: ↑Sun Oct 11, 2020 2:02 pm Wow, what a pain! Sorry for your troubles.
The eccentrics were revised to ease assembly - not a bad thing, that's for sure.
I'd reckon that the front diff was a bit of an afterthought. The original car came with a spool and one-ways so when they added the diff, the case halves required revision.
I think the main takeaway from your experience is that the revised (thicker) diff thrust race necessitated a revised diff bolt so they are a matched pair and need to be kept together. Mixing old and new here won't work.
Anyway, thanks for the update. Can you post photos of your projects?
I did a clean up of every parts, I was impressed by how some plastic parts came up despite their age. The epoxy chassis is like new, the top plate has still some rust marks. I sanded and polished a bit the motor and side plates, they look ok now. I also did a full clean and put new springs and brushes on the motor. I sanded the diff washers to flatten the old ones (grit 240/400/600) an break the mirror finish of new ones (grit 600), lubed with silicone grease the diffs and integrator are now smoother than ever.
For the XLS, I bought new belts from a belt specialist company, they nicely recut the long one at a 4mm width, but the cut is not very straight... I also ordered some new rere option parts from Schumacher, lexan undershell, alloy eccentrics and alloy front diff housing, a bit costly but a real upgrade and very nice machined parts. The front housing has two screws to set belt tension more easily like on the procat. I also cut a rear shock mount in a CF plate to replace the ugly one I hand made with a hacksaw years ago in PCB epoxy without removing the copper. I'm now waiting for 2mm stainless piano wire, new screws, ball bearings from China and some washers to remount the supension. Maybe a test run before Christmas !
I ordered new rere plates (with lower holes) for the XLS and will keep the original ones for the SWB.
On the SWB, no progress, I'm thinking on how to repare/rebuild the cracked parts I cannot find replacment for, maybe I'll go for 3D printing new ones, or having some machined in nylon as I fear they are too damaged to be fixed. Any tip/idea for the front one way joint solution is appreciated !
I planned to keep the original ball bearings for the SWB, but the soft plastic of the brown flange is totally dry and broke in dust in my fingers.
To be continued !
