RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Great work guys! I also have a Raider that is not moving due to a broken dogbone.

Have the following axles to compare/Pics Added:

-Kyosho re-re 87 WC/JJ Ultima CVA's 61.5mm

-Yeah Racing Optima Mid axles from alloy hub conversion (KYOP-019SP) 63.5mm

-EXO Design Ultima CVA's 63mm

-Xtra Speed CVA's for re-re Ultima (Xtra Speed PN: XS-OM27011) 63mm

I’ll throw one of these Xtra Speed axles in and see how it looks.

The Ultima JJ ReRe universal is the same part number as the Optima Worlds front, so those are probably usable as well.

Wonder if I should break the list up between CVD's and Universals.

Lowgear wrote: ↑Sun Apr 06, 2025 5:18 pm I should have been more specific by saying if you add the actual URL of the spreadsheet to your post, it will embed it. The current one in your post is the share link which is slightly different.

AH! Gotcha! Done!

rknize wrote: ↑Mon Apr 07, 2025 11:39 am Looks like they are 61.5mm:

kyosho-raider-pro-axle-uj-pin-to-pin.jpg

I had a feeling that was the case. Are you using the red spacer? The stock outdrive spring?

From your picture it looks like it sits in the rear pretty well. I'm curious about the front of the Rocky. The CVD combo puts the center of the CVD joint right in line with the steering pivot. Probably not a huge issue in practical use, and Cas22's bearing swap

HS-YZ250 wrote: ↑Mon Apr 07, 2025 2:30 pm

rknize wrote: ↑Mon Apr 07, 2025 11:39 am Looks like they are 61.5mm:

kyosho-raider-pro-axle-uj-pin-to-pin.jpg

I had a feeling that was the case. Are you using the red spacer? The stock outdrive spring?

From your picture it looks like it sits in the rear pretty well. I'm curious about the front of the Rocky. The CVD combo puts the center of the CVD joint right in line with the steering pivot. Probably not a huge issue in practical use, and Cas22's bearing swap

The red spacer is a bit too wide if you want to use the Optima hex adapter: the bearings are spread a bit further apart in the upright, I guess. I used a few shims instead and ended up putting them on the inside. I suppose a different hex adapter might allow for its use. Either way, you have some wiggle room to play around with to get the joint to best align with the steering king pins.

pma1123 wrote: ↑Mon Apr 07, 2025 12:24 pm Great work guys! I also have a Raider that is not moving due to a broken dogbone.

Will come back tonight and edit this post with findings.

Have the following axles to compare:
-Kyosho re-re 87 WC/JJ Ultima CVA's
-EXO Design Ultima CVA's
-Yeah Racing Optima Mid axles (KYOP-019SP)
-Xtra Speed CVA's for re-re Ultima (Xtra Speed PN: XS-OM27011)

The Xtra Speed OM27011 say 63mm on them, so I decided not to try them. I wonder if they have interference issues on the non-Mid/Turbo/Pro Optimas? An extra 1.5mm might be OK on a Raider, though.

For reference, the LA258 CVD shaft I used is 60.5mm. Apparently a very unusual size, which is why I was hoping I could get that Yokomo part to work.

I do run cheap, 70mm dogbones from Amazon in my Raiders (stock is 68mm). With the spring removed, they do work. I imagine it's a different story in the front of a Rocky. I'll be running the OTW125C now instead, as the seems to be the ideal fit. A CV would be nice, though I don't know if my Raiders would benefit given their terrible diffs. I have yet to source an RW Racing ring gear for a ball diff.

rknize wrote: ↑Tue Apr 08, 2025 11:23 am I do run cheap, 70mm dogbones from Amazon in my Raiders (stock is 68mm). With the spring removed, they do work. I imagine it's a different story in the front of a Rocky. I'll be running the OTW125C now instead, as the seems to be the ideal fit. A CV would be nice, though I don't know if my Raiders would benefit given their terrible diffs. I have yet to source an RW Racing ring gear for a ball diff.

In case you need them, I had a couple of spring options in this post.

I need to check the part number in the direct OEM replacement. I still have that bag.

I did away with the springs, pain in the neck.
If you use a standard domestic paper hole punch it snips out perfect size circles of thin rubber, i used thin neoprene sheet, and an old mouse pad,
These fitted perfectly into the drive cups and provided the bounce needed.
Cut foam the same way for rc10 cups

cas22 wrote: ↑Wed Apr 09, 2025 12:27 am I did away with the springs, pain in the neck.
If you use a standard domestic paper hole punch it snips out perfect size circles of thin rubber, i used thin neoprene sheet, and an old mouse pad,

I stopped using them as well. I still have them...somehow. I used a small o-ring with the 70mm, but I did notice that they were pushing a bit when the suspension was parallel and probably contributed to the splitting of my rear shock stay. I just let them flap around after that, but a small slug of foam was probably the right answer.