RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Have you been able to confirm that the nut actually fits the M3 screw? I'm wondering if you've somehow gotten some M2.6 or smaller nuts by mistake. That might explain why the nut doesn't press into the plastic receptacle. I would recommend doing a trial fit to confirm that the screw and nut fit together.

Oh wow, thanks so much for pointing out that much less expensive aluminum option. I just ordered the rear ones for a buck less than the battery holder set I would have had to buy to replace it with the original plastic part! The pictures didn't come out so great, but you can tell I got frustrated towards the end there & just ate it to sh!t trying to get it off after getting partially threaded but crooked. The only theory I have at this point is that the 1st time I tried this step I'd accidentally tried it with the M2 nut instead of the M3 after misplacing a few of those slippery things, and that could have left enough play to cause just enough wear to prevent the snug fit required. Though I am still skeptical I would have been able to tighten it without any way to grab from the other end to stabilize. I've ordered a few extras and hopefully I'll have better luck next time. In the meantime I can skip ahead to building the shocks & steering servo assembly & chalk this up to a late-night moment of carelessness.

I'm so grateful for all of the help...sincerely.

I feel like back when I was 15, I could tear apart & rebuild my Turbo Optima Mid SE & Ultima Pro blindfolded, with no discussion forums or YouTube available for help...It's a shame there isn't better support available from Kyosho America - I've not been able to get a response to any of the questions I've had - neither emails nor voicemails returned, whether my questions were sales or support-related. Hopefully before too long I'll post a video here of the maiden voyage, and this'll be the last hiccup.

You will want to flip the nut around- the nylon portion needs to face out. It will be really hard to start the screw that way, and it won’t have much contact in the pocket. I bet if you flip the nut around and press it into place it would stay

Even that is weird. Why would one need a nylon lock-nut there when the nut would already be captured and prevented from unscrewing by the cup it's inserted in? Wouldn't a regular non-locking nut work better there?

The nylon nut would keep the screw from backing out, not the nut from loosening. That said, yes a plain nut would probably be fine and that is exactly what kyosho would have done back in the 80’s and 90’s. They would have provided that nasty green goo thread lock and told you to use it on the screw.

Or, they might have given you some zip ties to fasten the radio plate.

sundevil67 wrote: ↑Thu Apr 30, 2020 11:31 am Oh wow, thanks so much for pointing out that much less expensive aluminum option. I just ordered the rear ones for a buck less than the battery holder set I would have had to buy to replace it with the original plastic part! The pictures didn't come out so great, but you can tell I got frustrated towards the end there & just ate it to sh!t trying to get it off after getting partially threaded but crooked. The only theory I have at this point is that the 1st time I tried this step I'd accidentally tried it with the M2 nut instead of the M3 after misplacing a few of those slippery things, and that could have left enough play to cause just enough wear to prevent the snug fit required. Though I am still skeptical I would have been able to tighten it without any way to grab from the other end to stabilize. I've ordered a few extras and hopefully I'll have better luck next time. In the meantime I can skip ahead to building the shocks & steering servo assembly & chalk this up to a late-night moment of carelessness.

I'm so grateful for all of the help...sincerely.

I feel like back when I was 15, I could tear apart & rebuild my Turbo Optima Mid SE & Ultima Pro blindfolded, with no discussion forums or YouTube available for help...It's a shame there isn't better support available from Kyosho America - I've not been able to get a response to any of the questions I've had - neither emails nor voicemails returned, whether my questions were sales or support-related. Hopefully before too long I'll post a video here of the maiden voyage, and this'll be the last hiccup.

That's odd, I've always found Kyosho's customer support to be excellent. This might be a result of the virus lock-down, limited staff due to it being a non-essential business, etc. Anyway, it's good to learn that you've gotten it sorted out.

Finally got those aluminum radio plate holder thingies - they went on a heckuva lot easier than the stock ones and actually eliminate that nut that I stripped. Very happy with that purchase. Pics attached. Now I just have to get motivated to finish up the build. I can’t seem to get my receiver paired with my transmitter, so that’s the next thing to troubleshoot. This sure hasn’t been the smoothest build I’ve ever done but I’m sure it’ll be worth it in the end. Thank you!

GoMachV wrote: ↑Thu Apr 30, 2020 1:22 am I pulled apart my only rere based optima on the shelf to show you how it should look. Notice in my pic the nut is fully seated in the plastic and holding it inverted, smacking it on the table etc would not dislodge it. I can put force against it when tightening the screw and it happily stays in place. Something just isn’t right on yours. Pics would help us figure it out.

Again, ignore the non factory side plates. It’s still an optima and the parts we are discussing are the same as yours