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The answer to that question is 'just slightly less than my wife spends on shoes'....

This car was actually quite the bargain as the previous owner didn't really know what is was and had owned it for several decades, having been gifted it as a teenager in the late 80's when still racing.

Front Brimods on... trying to use as much of the original hardware as possible without over restoring anything. Built to be used.

Slight set back with the build, well, two set backs in fact.

Firstly, a quick check of the lengths and it seems that the Concept Car actually used the SWB CAT main belt, and not the longer XL length as per the orange item.... not a massive deal as i have a new SWB belt available to me, but just a shame as the orange version is so nice. Ho-hum.....

Secondly, there is no way to get the alloy WASP front gearbox housing to attach to the set up on the RC10 chassis. The original plastic item has a dovetail-esq lower fitting which slots into a small plate attached to the chassis. Again, not a massive deal as i can just use the original item. I have an MMS front drivetrain assembly available so that will go into the original plastic housing and get fitted. We will fit the white WASP front drivetrain and WASP housing into my ongoing XL build which is being detailed on another thread.

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=41426&start=45

In the meantime we have fitted a nice WASP slipper clutch to the MMS drive spindle. This can be interchanged quite quickly between the Concept Car and my XL, whichever is being used at the time. Nice period touch.
The rear gearbox set up was designed to accept the Parma RC10 gear cover, and thankfully the original was still intact when i received the car. I am assuming the slipper might impact this a little, but i also have a spare in case one needs to be adapted to allow the slipper clutch to fit properly.

On the original CAT plastic front gearbox housing, the part you are missing on the aluminium version isn't actually a fitting as such, it's used for a bit more surface area for it to sit on the chassis plate & topdeck and clamp between them.

On the RC10 they've used that extra webbing on the gearbox housing to clamp it down onto the chassis from the other side. Quite a basic way of fitting the front gearbox.

They have actually managed quite a neat bit of machining to create a slot in the metal plate beneath the front gearbox. This plate also serves to lift the front gearbox up off the chassis so the belt runs freely. You can see the slot in the below picture - i hadn't really paid much attention to it to be honest, but yes the 'foot' of the gearbox housing is missing on the alloy version.

I can see that now, it's hard to tell exactly how things are fitted from the small photos. In that French mag, that car looks like it has the front half of a topdeck & belt cover on the top of the gearbox?

Yeah i had seen that too. It almost looks like it joins to the servo mounting block. I had assumed it was simply an attempt at protecting the front upper belt. In my head i think i can see a crude belt tensioner on the rearward servo mount too but maybe i am imagining that.

I thought it looked like the topdeck was screwed down at the gearbox end but the pic isn't clear enough. Now you mention it, I can see what you're seeing too, it does look like a tensioner but it could be anything

Progress....

Finally race ready for the weekend. I couldn't stand looking at the block tyres any longer so switched to old school minispikes. Used the base of a 2litre pop bottle to make a pair of shock protectors

Nice paintjob. I did get some influence of it when painting body for my JQ eBuggy last spring

What a great find and restoration.

dinglem wrote: ↑Thu Sep 03, 2020 9:26 am Finally race ready for the weekend. I couldn't stand looking at the block tyres any longer so switched to old school minispikes. Used the base of a 2litre pop bottle to make a pair of shock protectors


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The build turned out amazing, well done! How did it run on the track?

Bit of an odd one actually, not the best day... Steering tie rods kept popping off mid turn. Both ends at the same time(!) so i was actually losing steering arms and subsequently crashing a lot! Still not sure why but even new ball cups didn't fix it. Was pointless continuing sadly. I am thinking full suspension movement somehow pressured them off. Good fun and initial shakedown though, the transmission freed up nicely with zero belt slip or issues. Battery access was also a bit of a ball-ache so i ecentually opted to charge in the car which was a little risky.

Great thread and car, enjoyed seeing the pics on iconic rc

I had the same issue on my first rc10 build, the outer ball joints on the hub/chub hit each other on full suspension compression causing them to pop off, take the front shock off and check out if there is a fowling issue