RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

jwscab wrote: ↑Mon May 27, 2019 4:02 pm Where the heck did you get silicon carbide powder? Good idea though, some kind of strong filler helps support the epoxy.

i bought it from amazon, for $11. perhaps elsewhere you don't have to buy so much, the linked size is waaaaaaay more than you need:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y3X3FPP

Lavigna wrote: ↑Sun May 26, 2019 2:45 am Great build so far. It's too late now that you have filled the holes, but I have seen people who had the same issue use smaller bearings to accommodate the original steering setup. I looked for the thread but couldn't find it. I think it's cool how you filled the holes.

I will definitely be following your build. Keep it up!

I missed your post here, thanks for the support!

I got the motor cleaned and reassembled. Cleaning was done with qtips and alcohol. Everything looks pretty good inside. All that is left is to solder leads and caps.


the original tires were cleaned and rebuilt. I used vasoline on the bead to make assembly easier.

With thanks to Sabula tech I received the longer Trinity pins needs for the Factory Works front bulkhead brace.

Pins packaging:


the longer pins installed with the brace, the length is perfect:



front view:



thanks again to this forum and sabula tech

to protect the bottom of the chassis I decided to wrap it in faux carbon fiber. My first time using wrap, its not perfect but good enough for me

the bottom of the chassis, in pretty good shape:



taped down over the wrap for cutting:



the outer shape cut out, mmm carbon fiber



holes traced and punched out:



the final product laminated on the chassis, not too shabby:

I put the front end on minus shocks which are awaiting rebuilding and parts:



the bottom:



you can see where some of the wrap was grabbed by the screw heads, in hindsight i probably should have made the holes larger. ohh well

modifieda4 wrote: ↑Thu May 30, 2019 12:18 am ...Cleaning was done with qtips and alcohol....

Drinking beers and cleaning.... why didn't I think of this??? Maybe I would clean more of my cars!!!!



Alex

P.S. Love the thread

Great progress. That chassis looks great.

I strongly suggest Maxima SC1 spray for the tires. I like to spray it all over the tires, and let it sit overnight. Then I clean the tires well with soap and water. I use a scrubber from the kitchen sink (with bristles) to remove all of the dark brown covering on the rubber. The bristles get in between all the pins of the rear tires. Then I rinse, dry, and then re-spray with SC1. The SC1 does a great job of keeping the old rubber soft and prevents cracking. This method will have your rubber looking new, and staying that way.

Incredible_Serious wrote: ↑Thu May 30, 2019 1:01 am

modifieda4 wrote: ↑Thu May 30, 2019 12:18 am ...Cleaning was done with qtips and alcohol....

Drinking beers and cleaning.... why didn't I think of this??? Maybe I would clean more of my cars!!!!



Alex

P.S. Love the thread

not to worry, beer was involved

Lavigna wrote: ↑Thu May 30, 2019 5:05 pm Great progress. That chassis looks great.

I strongly suggest Maxima SC1 spray for the tires. I like to spray it all over the tires, and let it sit overnight. Then I clean the tires well with soap and water. I use a scrubber from the kitchen sink (with bristles) to remove all of the dark brown covering on the rubber. The bristles get in between all the pins of the rear tires. Then I rinse, dry, and then re-spray with SC1. The SC1 does a great job of keeping the old rubber soft and prevents cracking. This method will have your rubber looking new, and staying that way.

good info, thanks! i intend this to be a runner, should i still treat the rubber?

i figured i'd try the jrx pro(?) rear bulkhead and shock tower so i could use the inboard tierod mounting locations. here are some pics:

jrx pro(?) rear bulkhead on the left vs the stock one:


here are the rear towers in comparison:



mounting holes lined up:



in a separate thread i saw someone having trouble with the shock springs interfering with the 5link arms with this tower. while no shock mounting holes align, there is one hole up and inboard which should keep the shock at the stock angle with stock clearances.

ill be trying that hole first. here is the assembly:



here is the assembly mounted on the chassis with my modified battery: