Thanks Jeff! I'll check with Barbara about getting some.
Factory Works 180* Steering Bellcrank Build
- NomadRacer
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Re: Factory Works 180* Steering Bellcrank Build
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Re: Factory Works 180* Steering Bellcrank Build
Front axles are relatively easy to make on the lathe Nomad. The only tricky part is drilling the hole for the hinge pin as it has to be located perfectly or the pin could bind when everything is assembled. It's probably best to make a drilling fixture to prevent the bit from wandering off center.
I'd bet you could make a set of axles that would be absolutely stunning!
I'd bet you could make a set of axles that would be absolutely stunning!
Doug
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Re: Factory Works 180* Steering Bellcrank Build
Yeah a v block and center or spotting drill in a drill press works well. I just made some associated pairs for Joey King, as well as losi/trx pairs.
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Re: Factory Works 180* Steering Bellcrank Build
I think I can make them, drilling and threading the end either 5-40 or 4-40 (which ever you like) with no problem. I do have a chunk of 1/4" and 5/16" Titanium rod (prefer over alum.) in my stash.XLR8 wrote: ↑Tue Nov 20, 2018 11:19 am Front axles are relatively easy to make on the lathe Nomad. The only tricky part is drilling the hole for the hinge pin as it has to be located perfectly or the pin could bind when everything is assembled. It's probably best to make a drilling fixture to prevent the bit from wandering off center.
I'd bet you could make a set of axles that would be absolutely stunning!
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Re: Factory Works 180* Steering Bellcrank Build
Hmmm, those are some great suggestions Joe.
Makes me wanna fire-up the lathe and try them out.
I don't have a v-block but I could improvise/fab something equivalent.

Doug
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Re: Factory Works 180* Steering Bellcrank Build
I've just used a vise before and clamped it to the press table. All the magic is setting up the centerline. Well, the second piece of magic is the stubby drill to prevent wander.
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Re: Factory Works 180* Steering Bellcrank Build
Yep, stubby, or sometimes called machine screw length drill bits are a must, they're all I have. Go for solid carbide bits for rigidity.
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Re: Factory Works 180* Steering Bellcrank Build
If you use a center drill it's even better. I think a #2 is the right one. A spotting drill is the 'correct' tool though.
If you don't have any, you should use them with your lathe, for center drill or making a 60 degree pilot for a live center
If you don't have any, you should use them with your lathe, for center drill or making a 60 degree pilot for a live center
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Re: Factory Works 180* Steering Bellcrank Build
I don't know what these are called but this is what my Dad had in his shop.
He was an amazing guy; without any formal machinist training, he could make anything on a lathe and a bridgeport.
He was an amazing guy; without any formal machinist training, he could make anything on a lathe and a bridgeport.
Doug
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Re: Factory Works 180* Steering Bellcrank Build
Those are center drills, and you appear to be holding a #1. They are generally used when making a 60 degree pilot in the end of stock so it can be supported in a tail stick with a center.
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Re: Factory Works 180* Steering Bellcrank Build
Yes, center drills and a nice vintage looking set. They'd look good in any tool chest.

Sometimes you have to use the tools you have to do a job, like using a center drill to do a chamfered hole. Is it the right tool? no. But it'll get the job done.
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Re: Factory Works 180* Steering Bellcrank Build
Small update for today, working on the trailing arm pivot post...
The first thing I do is remove any flashing from the posts. This is so they fit in my ER16, 1/4" lathe collet nice and true. I use diamond coated files to get the job done.
Now, I head to the machine shop for some "groovy action". First, I turn the post to make it true. This is done with light cuts, 0.001-0.002" at a time. Next the grooves. I come in 0.050" from the end and cut four grooves, 0.030" spacing, 0.060" deep. They look pretty good to me. Finally, I use a 1/8" hand chucking reamer to remove any internal burs in the hole. I'll continue working on the posts till they are all nice and shinny, well, not a true shine, a sort of fine brushed finish is what I'm after.
The first thing I do is remove any flashing from the posts. This is so they fit in my ER16, 1/4" lathe collet nice and true. I use diamond coated files to get the job done.
Now, I head to the machine shop for some "groovy action". First, I turn the post to make it true. This is done with light cuts, 0.001-0.002" at a time. Next the grooves. I come in 0.050" from the end and cut four grooves, 0.030" spacing, 0.060" deep. They look pretty good to me. Finally, I use a 1/8" hand chucking reamer to remove any internal burs in the hole. I'll continue working on the posts till they are all nice and shinny, well, not a true shine, a sort of fine brushed finish is what I'm after.
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