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Custom-machining some alloy rims to personalize the car, awesome! Those will definitely make it stand out, especially when polished. Looking forward to updates with the rims mounted.

Joe (jwscab) helped me fit some JPS wheels to my OptiMutt car, I loved the wheels and just HAD to find a way to mount them. He shaved down the tapered hub inners and lathed in crosspin slots.

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=30216&start=84

These have been a relative walk in the park compared to the ones we have just made to fit on to my Coyote (see other thread!) They slotted straight on if we didn't want one-ways, but like the Pro Radiant the plan all along was to get the one-way front hubs up and running, whilst also running alloy rims. I have always preferred cars with alloy rims, pretty much a must-have for me on most of my cars where possible.

Both cars will be hitting he track on the same day (28th July) in a charity vintage meeting in the UK, so the clock is very much ticking now....

I'm big on alloy wheels, too...nothing sets off a car more than a unique or different set of alloy rims! The Radiant's gold-plated dish wheels are attractive, but even as nice as they are, I'm not much of a fan of dish wheels. It's just too 'meh'.

I just added today's Coyote alloy saga update after reading your post here.... now they really are something different but special for that particular car.

My main problem with the Pro Radiant - which I think is one of the best looking cars out there - pure sex appeal.... is the gold rims (or black Boost rims). Jeeeeezzz... they're ugly.

This is my solution

Finally got the car on track this weekend. Very wet first run out with lots of tech issues, but it seemed very fast and efficient, even just running a vintage 16Triple. I absolutely love it.

Quite a transformation from the rusty wreck i posted up on Page 1!!

Another wreck finished and back on the track , well done Dinglem , quite jealous

Wiring still needs a tidy, and the wing side panels fell off mid-race and i only had black servo tape available on the day.... but at least you get an idea for the set-up.

Now it has had a run, and freed off a little i am totally blown away by how efficient the drivetrain is. Virtually zero resistance whatsoever.

Want one

dinglem wrote: ↑Mon Oct 21, 2019 9:30 am Now it has had a run, and freed off a little i am totally blown away by how efficient the drivetrain is. Virtually zero resistance whatsoever.

Back when I had one, I couldn't get the drivetrain freed up at all. Granted, I was quite inexperienced at that point in time. The chains had slack and each component seemed to rotate fine on its own, but the sum of all components just would not spin well. I eventually got fed up with it, and that is why I sold it. Still one of my biggest RC regrets. Hmm... that would be an interesting topic for discussion - Biggest RC Regrets. Back on topic, I specifically remember going to my LHS with my Pro Radiant to discuss the drivetrain issues. Another racer of the time was there, and he told me to run it and that would stretch out the chains. I laughed because I thought he was pulling my leg. I mean, metal chains don't stretch, right? Not to a 10 year old, they don't. When I eventually get another one, I will probably be asking you a lot of questions.

When i built my first one, I just followed the racers guide notes relating to the drive train set up, and as it suggested the front chain was quite loose but the rear was actually very tight. It is the rear which it informs you will loosen off after the first couple of runs, and this is indeed what happens. Another potential tight point is the dust seals on the diffs - i know several driver of these from bitd who replaced the plastic press-in rings with teflon items for example.

Apart from that, everything else is just ballraces so there shouldn't be anywhere else to bind.

The hop-up chain tensioner over the motor - the one on the extended arm - really helps you to fine tune the front chain and ballracing that roller also has to help. The hop up version whas tiny bearings whereas the standard kit item does not.

Without the motor engaged this thing just rolls and rolls. By far the loosest transmission i have come across.

Just realised that I haven't updated this thread in a while... the car has had a couple of additions since I ran it in torrential rain at the Revival....

The first thing I did immediately after that weekend was track down and fit an undertray to protect the electrics from the typical UK summer weather. This turned out to be a great find and a lovely snug fit, plus doubled-up as a more conventional (for the time) means of securing the body shell.


At the same time I also fitted a cut n shut pair of front upper wishbones, which are held together with tie-rods to allow for subtle front wheel camber tweaking when at the track. Very cool mod indeed as per the Dunn cars

This is such a great looking machine.... it is hard to look back at the first page of this thread and see how it has changed since i received it, having been plucked from the remains of a house fire, all covered in rust following a fire brigade soaking.

Wow! Love it

Awesome homz! FXXK!