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The graphite team car most definitely came with the motor guard. Bought one new, came in the box.

If the chassis is bonded with "resin" it is probably is polyester resin.
I recently asked a good friend and excellent body man the same question about filling scratches on the underside of my graphite chassis.
He never saw the chassis but with little hesitation he suggested 2 part spray automotive type clear coat.
Eastwood makes a DIY polyester catalyzed clear coat.
If I was just a little more surefooted on my assumption of the original chassis composition I would try it on my Houge.
Hopefully someone with more knowledge than I can chime in.

scr8p ??

It is really a good question.

Chuck

I put several coats of rattle can clear coat on my Hot Trick chassis to fill in scratches and it worked fairly well.


On this car, i think one of the reasons ths chassis was in such good shape was they had the suspension travel severly limited with fuel tubing on all the shocks. The bottom side of all the arms are pretty much perfect too, probably for the same reason. Everything taken apart and ready for a good soaking and a scrub.
What would you guys suggest for ball cups for this car? Guess I'm going to need ballstuds too.

I would try to find the correct half hex ball cups..... Even if they are used. They would fit with the overall condition of the car.

Or just keep the heim ends on it. They were a popular upgrade.

scr8p wrote: ↑Mon Apr 09, 2018 9:33 am I would try to find the correct half hex ball cups..... Even if they are used. They would fit with the overall condition of the car.

Or just keep the heim ends on it. They were a popular upgrade.

Okay, maybe I'll just keep the heims. BTW, why did those fall out of vogue? The seem much better than ball cups. When I ran them BITD I never had one pop off. Ball cups on the other hand... Maybe because ball cups pop off and prevent something else from breaking or bending?

They do add quite a bit of weight with all of the hardware involved.

Yes and it's adding unsprung weight which is really not what you'll want.

I use them on my outer steering turnbuckles since those are the ball cups that usually pop off.

Eh......lipos are so much lighter now I don't even think you would notice. Back then even a couple grams was huge.

Cool, thanks guys. I think I'll reuse them, I think they are kind of cool. I don't need to worry about a couple grams, my shelf can support the extra weight no problem

These came today for this car
Thanks Jeff!

Question for you guys: Does the 6440 rebuild kit fit bottom loaders?
https://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/6440-ASC6440-rebuild_kit/

For bottom load I use a traxxas 2362 for the plastic washers and retaining clips and Associated 5407 for regular orange orings. In the 6440 kit you get the same orings and the plastic washers work great- but you don’t get the large plastic washer or the retaining ring. The 6440 also has rubber shock cap orings which work much better but aren’t era correct. There is no replacement for those that I’ve found although I’m sure they are off the shelf Teflon seals for something.

Thanks Jeff, i ordered those. Just my luck if i just got the 6440 kit I'd send one of the retainer clips flying when taking them apart and then be totally screwed.

Thanks to the great tips in this thread, I glued up the nose of my chassis last night. I used LocTite "superglue" with a needle tip so I could get the glue down in between the layers that were separating. We'll see how it comes out. I'm sure I'll still have to trim some of the edge off, but hopefully not much. I also took the nylon parts out of their bath. They had been soaking in water with Dawn for a couple days, and I gave them all a good scrubbing with a toothbrush when I first put them in. Only part I'm not happy with is the transmission case. I may give it the peroxide treatment to get it to match the other parts a little better. Note there's no battery cup there because I wasn't happy with how it had been hacked up. I have some unmolested original ones in my stash that I'll use one of. For those of you that have done the peroxide treatment to whiten up yellow parts, looking at that transmission case about how long would that need to soak in peroxide to get it to more closely match the other parts? Just trying to get a rough idea, are we talking minutes, hours, days? I don't have a clue.