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I think I got my pulleys from "belts online " , they had a 3mm bore so had to be opened out a little ,im not bidding on the Rock'n city , I hadn't even seen it till now ,I've got a holiday at the end of the month so i have to save my penny's .
There in s a gear cover for a hirobo Tomcat on eBay , not exactly the right shape but maybe it could be modified to fit .

front shock towers a bit more respectable, found some brackets in the spares box.... with just a bit of hammering, bending and drilling...
from this


to this

Deep sigh of relief...thought a differential was buggered, just a loose grub screw , but stripped and lubed as they were dried out

Those shock mounts look much better "tidy" . The diffs on my Zerda were bone dry as in never had been lubed , I added some grease but I did wonder if it was a deliberate thing to leave them dry , there is no gasket to seal them so if they leek then it could end up on the belt ...

Good point re running dry but mine had some dried up grease residue in the case and on the gears. Maybe any excess or leakage will come out through the axles as there's no seal there. But thinking on, the diffs only compensate for cornering etc so minimal lube should do it

Typical male , read the manual after event. It says grease the gears "a little"

Thanks for the heads up re dust cover but it looks too different to chance

I love salvaged quirky runners from the 80's

threesheds wrote: ↑Sun Mar 04, 2018 3:21 pm

I would try to make sure you have some lateral clearance around the top cap, so the shock can swing outside as the A-arm moves up

Any chance you'll have some vids of this baby at the end?

to grease leaky diffs - tamiya AWG is your best bet as it's so sticky that (1) it won't leave the gears with the rotation force and (2) you need just a little bit for this very reason.

Noted... Enough play around shocks but was going to retro fit original shock tower, then found these shocks too fat to fit behind suspension arms. Seems to work as is for now. Too shy for vids as she,s topless. Making a top plate out of some "luminun" found in shed but its too thin or soft. Might do as temporary and template. It's gonna be a "bitser" unless there's a windfall of spares.

if you wanted i could scan my top plate in the printer and email you it as an attached file, you could print it as a template , the original material is crydex or krydex can't remember the spelling but you can get sheets of it on eBay relatively cheaply , looks about 1.5 -2 mm thick .

Don't want to ask you to dismantle unnecessarily. But maybe next time youve got it off. I found a pic of one and scaled it approx based on fixing points. May have to bodge it around my steering servo. Ta vm for material info.

Kydex, searched it...several thicknesses. Cheers

That's the stuff , might get some myself , I don't like being able to look through the chassis under the driver , if I make up a new top deck I can form one with sides , kydex is mouldable when heated a bit like lexan , it's mostly used for custom gun holsters formed to the gun shape .

Careful, you're on the verge of modding. I thought you were a puritan

threesheds wrote: ↑Sat Mar 10, 2018 3:12 am Careful, you're on the verge of modding. I thought you were a puritan

Ha ha no , pure is too expensive , anyway I'd keep the stock part for Sunday best