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NomadRacer wrote: ↑Fri Nov 17, 2017 7:59 am Thanks guys. I had to order some motor mounts screws last night, no more in my stash. I'm pondering about a motor, all I have left is a Reedy M3 17.5 brushless. Guess I'll use that for now.

If it fits, use conic washers or lunsford (or equivalent) "fat" washers to spread the load on that nicely polished alum plate

These are the motor screws I like the best...

is that a turned button head? very nice indeed.

It's a Lunsford Racing titanium motor screw.

Hand fed rolled threads too I got to watch him feed the machine, it’s actually pretty scary to watch haha! I’d lose a finger for sure

NomadRacer wrote: ↑Fri Nov 17, 2017 11:54 am These are the motor screws I like the best...

Great too, but too pricey...

Speaking of screws, I received my first order from Team KnK today. Really great folks to deal with. I would buy from them again. Conversely, I order some odds and ends from Fastenal and they totally botched the order. Lesson learned dealing with Fastenal online: just because you can order something from stock, they confirm the order, they charge your credit card account, you receive an update that your order is in process, then you wait forever for an update on the status of your order, and you call the local store that was supposed to have received your order to find out where the heck is your order, it doesn't mean you will actually receive anything from them.

Progress this morning...

I dyed the transmission cases with Rit Dyemore Racing Red and assembled the transmission. It's smooth and feels precise. I made one mistake though... I installed it in the black tube with 1/2" 8-32 screws in the front. I should have been watching what was going on while tightening
the screws. I ended up with a screw mark in the case on both sides I can fix it with some dye on a q-tip and it won't look bad. My advice is to use 3/8" length screws vice 1/2" long.

Looking good. My advice; don't sweat the small mistakes, you'll never notice it when it's finished. I forgot but are you building this as a runner?

I fixed my "mistake". Took the tranny apart and dropped it back in the dye bath. The red is a touch darker now... I'm calling it Cherry Red

Yes, it will be a runner!

The best part about dye is that if you don’t like the color, it’s never too late to go black- and black is always a good color.

I'm digging the darker red on the tranny case. Again I used Rit Dyemore, this time black on the bulkhead and the rear chassis brace. To me, the black bulkhead ties into the black tub. I used Factory Works red "cool things" button head washers where I could. All screws are stainless steel.

That's looking AMAZING!

The trans case goes really good with those anodized washers. Good call on making the other parts black.

mk-Zero wrote: ↑Sat Nov 18, 2017 3:15 pm That's looking AMAZING!

The trans case goes really good with those anodized washers. Good call on making the other parts black.

Thanks Brian, I'm really digging this conversion kit!

So, I'm getting ready to add some shocks (re-re Worlds), rear arms and re-re CVA's. In my mock up I'm seeing some things I need to overcome. I went back and read the original build and came across this:

I'm running World's CVAs in the back, and as you all probably know they are too short. So I ended up putting tons of spacers in my rear shocks and running very little droop

If you recall, could you share amount/size of spacers you used in the shocks and how you spaced (shims/etc.) to get your CVA's to work?

Yeah, it's really annoying that AE put too short of CVA bones in the kits. I ended up running all the spacers on the inside, the blue one and the 3 thin metal ones. With that I was able to set a reasonable amount of droop. Sorry, I don't remember how many spacers in the shocks, you just have to experiment setting your droop till the engagement of the drive pin and outdrive are as close to the edge as you're comfortable with.