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I've only found it at the craft stores, and the last two times they were out. Ended up using prime as well lol

Got the Power Clutch, spare belt and gear cover today. Thanks GoMachV for the extra screws!

One thing I found out so far...

The Robinson Racing #1875 (48P 75T) spur gear will bolt right on the LW tranny. Once you install the power clutch you need to switch to a Kimbrough spur gear because the hole pattern is different. OK, order something else today! I can't just slip out to the local hobby shop, it's 150 miles one way

Got my dye so I can get some parts black!

I did some dye work, frontend parts and rear bulkhead last night... digging the new look.

The front linkage consists of Lunsford 3mm Punisher turnbuckles, Associated #31305 turnbuckle eyelets and #9795/9796 TiN ball studs. Factory Works/A&L steering kit makes for that retro look.



I've used some Factory Works button head red washers with Lunsford Ti 4-40x3/8" bhcs's to attach the shock tower to the bulkhead.

NomadRacer wrote: ↑Sat May 06, 2017 12:15 pm Thanks for the link dude

After hitting up two Walmart's and three Dollar stores yesterday I was not able to track down some Rit DyeMore graphite to do my bulkhead and other parts. No worries, Amazon Prime will get me a couple of bottles here the first of the week.

Can't you search the local walmart inventory online so you don't have to drive? lol. I drove to a walmart almost an hour away for one specific bottle of RIT dye... cause none of the closer Walmarts had it.

lmw94002 wrote: ↑Tue May 09, 2017 1:21 pm

NomadRacer wrote: ↑Sat May 06, 2017 12:15 pm Thanks for the link dude

After hitting up two Walmart's and three Dollar stores yesterday I was not able to track down some Rit DyeMore graphite to do my bulkhead and other parts. No worries, Amazon Prime will get me a couple of bottles here the first of the week.

Can't you search the local walmart inventory online so you don't have to drive? lol. I drove to a walmart almost an hour away for one specific bottle of RIT dye... cause none of the closer Walmarts had it.

I shop at one of the Wally's every week, my buddy works across the road from the other. I live in the boonies, so that's about the extent of my local shopping options. Don't ask me to pop into a hobby shop for some tires... that's a 150 mile trip, one way!

Yikes, I thought a 50mi trip to the nearest track was a pain...

Update...

Steering servo arrived today, Savox SC-1251MG (BLACK) and some tires. I dyed the rims (formerly white) black.

so is that the RIT Dyemore Graphite? Did you try with the RIT Black? Just curious how the regular vs. Dyemore works for the plastic parts.

lmw94002 wrote: ↑Wed May 10, 2017 10:22 am so is that the RIT Dyemore Graphite? Did you try with the RIT Black? Just curious how the regular vs. Dyemore works for the plastic parts.

Yes, Dyemore Graphite. I read GoMachV's posts about the formula changing in the old style dye so didn't even mess around. I used 3oz dye to 2qt water ratio.

Rainy day so I decided to make a couple of parts on my old Taig Micro Lathe II. My magnetic base/dial indicator was acting funny so my spacing ended up a tad off. At least I got both parts matching!

Titanium spacers (replacing the nylon ones) for the LW transmission brace to bulkhead. There's only 0.6 gram difference in weight between the Ti and nylon.

I got my "starting" spur and pinion today, bolted up the Reedy 17.5 brushless motor and it looks like I'll need to open up the top screw slot by 1mm or so Just to be sure I tried it with an old brushed MABUCHI RS-540SH motor and everything lines up perfectly. I'm going to think on this motor choice awhile before doing any filing on the slot. I don't know much about sourcing brushed motors nowadays. I'd definitely want to get a new one, 27T I guess.

Starting to get the steering servo mounting figured out. First thing, strip the blue anodizing off the parts. I went ahead and did the AE battery thumb screws will at it.

Has anyone figured out a way to run nose tube braces on a C2 chassis?

Not on the C2. You could make something with longer tubes and GT pieces but it would still have flex in the chassis

You could run some full length tubes, carry them all the way to the rear bulkhead, but I fear they would bend easily

Thanks for your views on the brace tubes. I think I'll put the idea back in my "tool box"