RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Just curious why are you dead set on wheelies?

I've put the T4 top shaft and slipper in every stealth I actually use, I recommend it. I even have it in my 20T brushed 550 can motor 10T, and that thing is hard to keep on two tires without the slipper backed off a good amount.

It's not so much the wheelies. More of the assurance I'm harnessing the full power of the motor. I upgraded to cvd, bought new tires and converted to 12mm hex. I really want to reach the motors potential is all. When I was doing speed runs in the parking lot I was disappointed I could only hit low 40's before my esc would Overheat and old tires went bald fast. So I went the route of modernizing the truck some more. I hope that explains why I keep mentioning wheelies.

Process of elimination shows it's not the tranny. The motor has no power when I slide it off the spur gear I have very little spin. I have 7.4v on my battery so it may be a loose sodder joint on the EC3 plug. I see what looks it could be a little gray dust inside the plug on the sodder side. But the truck was running for 10 min before I had this issue so I'm not totally sure that's the issue. To be continued......

Check ebay for the guys that part out brand new kits. Like this one as an example:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Team-Associated-T4-2-Transmission-Slipper-Clutch-Set-87T-Spur-9654-T4-1-SC10-/222161827097?hash=item33b9e07519:g:ApsAAOSwNuxXaeSx

You get everything for a fraction of the cost of buying all the parts individually. I have gone this route a few times, with no issues.
I also recommend you invest in the Castle Link. Being able to adjust the ESC with a computer is so much easier and you can fine tune the settings to your driving style. You can download the software from Castle and run it in demo mode to see what it has to offer (http://www.castlecreations.com/downloads.html). I like to play around with the throttle curve. Right now I have mine set like the one on the right below (the one on the left is default). The initial steep curve helps eliminate the cogging at low speed, the gradual straight line helps reduce wheelies, and the increase at the end is like hitting nitrous.

I've done the B4 and slipper on all of my cars as well.

I'm sorry to insist but I still think you're chasing the wrong ghost here...

can you find a friendly RC'er with a race-grade battery to help you out?

And please do me a favor a change hobbyshops... any hobbyshops that sells 7cells NiMh in 2016 ought to go bankrupt... really.

7 cell NiMh = Traxxas hobby shop.

I'm busy all week and won't be able to get down to my hobby shop for awhile. His hours are terrible and isn't even there half the time. He did do right by me with a few things on the house and that goes a long way in my book. . Unfortunately, he is the closed to me, and as you know hobby shops are hard to come by these days wih the Internet.

We recently had 2-3 LHS close in the Phoenix area, which doesn't leave many left.

With all due respect (again) if your LHS sells you 7cells NiMH - let it close. Other than making you waste your money, they serve no purpose. Unless they have a track, of course, in which case protect it at any cost!!!!

I have yet to see an LHS with a track that sells 7cells NiMH in 2016, mind you

Lonestar wrote:

Charlesmtb wrote: The motor just rattles like its locking up.

A 5700kv BL is a rather decently torquey motor. it SHOULD lift the wheels,

I'm still betting on the batteries

This ^

A 5700 should make your 10T FLY down the road and lift the front end with no trouble at all. Mind you, mine is geared differently (22p, 81s). But still...it's the crappy batteries you are using. Switch to lipo since you have the Castle setup. You'll be flying right away and looking for a way to keep the front end down.

Thanks everyone for your feedback. The consensus is lipo! I'll make the change after I pay next months day care lol. I'm excited to get the lipo battery powering. 3s lipo overkill? Even if I hear down to say 15p 87s? I also plan on upgrading top shaft/V2 slipper. I find more joy in tinkering with my T than driving it.

Charlesmtb wrote:3s lipo overkill?

Yes.

Honestly, mate, you are barely discovering the joys of RC... go 2S. keep 3S when everything else is under control.

It was a bad battery. LHS gave me a new one no questions asked and the truck zips!!!! Still no 2s yet. But I'll get there. I'm just enjoying the truck as is right now