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Looks like the steering controller arm has had it. Will I have to replace the whole box?

SERVO IS USAUALLY FINE.Put another arm on it and roatate by hand or with radio and use hand put resistence on it see if servo gears are stripped.But most time just needs new servo saver arm or plain arm depending on vehicle its in.DON

The grease is proving difficult to remove. I remember the can said "lithium grease", and I sprayed it on moving parts.

Stuff is still grease after 25 years, ha.

I got most of it off the front suspension here.



I'm going to remove the rest of the sway bar as well. It looks like I will need one of the ball mounts to replace the missing upper arm.

THUNDERSTRIKE1 wrote:SERVO IS USAUALLY FINE.Put another arm on it and roatate by hand or with radio and use hand put resistence on it see if servo gears are stripped.But most time just needs new servo saver arm or plain arm depending on vehicle its in.DON

Yes, the servo is still good, I was curious if just a replacement arm was available somewhere or if I had to purchase an entire unit.

Looks much better already.
Sure, you can just buy a little servo arm pack without the servo. They often come in a pack with several, to fit Futaba, Airtronics, or JR servos (different splines)...yours is obviously a Futaba, so just make sure that's what you're getting.
After sitting so long, I'd certainly get a shock rebuild kit too, especially if you plan to run it.

The ball joint for the sway bar is not the same thread as the one for the upper arm. So there goes that idea. Maybe I can find some hardware kits with these pieces.

Looks like you are missing the #6270 ball end from the top of the carrier. Same as the ones in this pack...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Associated-RC10-GT-B3-T3-Ball-Joints-One-Pair-/371607961605?hash=item56858f8005:g:nOcAAOSw9uFW9CHh

As I recall, that one threads into the carrier. If that hole is stripped out, you'll need a new carrier or a ball end with a longer shaft so you can put a nut on the back.

Do you still have the manual?

You are correct, it does thread in. The threads still appear good, although it would be nice to have a longer stud for a backup nut.

I do still have the manual, yes.

A few new electrical connections.

R Cane wrote:Looks like you are missing the #6270 ball end from the top of the carrier. Same as the ones in this pack...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Associated-RC10-GT-B3-T3-Ball-Joints-One-Pair-/371607961605?hash=item56858f8005:g:nOcAAOSw9uFW9CHh

As I recall, that one threads into the carrier. If that hole is stripped out, you'll need a new carrier or a ball end with a longer shaft so you can put a nut on the back.

Okay, so I bought that kit and a ". Hot Bodies HB Aluminum Steering Servo Horn ". Now I need to find a rod to replace the missing one.

Okay so I eliminated all the extra three wire plug and radio wiring since the car has always run the remote servo power on a 9v. I bought this to replace the original switch and plug.

As for the shocks, I think I will oil them and see how they do. If I remember it came with a little oil supply for them originally, what is a good oil to use?

Looking on eBay, would a world car turnbuckle setup fit this car?

Also I'm looking on https://www.teamassociated.com/
What model rc10 should I be looking for parts under?

Also what bodies fit this car?

the rc10 classic will supply you with the closest replacement parts.

also, 20w-30w oil is around the right range for the shocks, the kit usually supplied 30w.