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Me like.

The original universals were getting a little worn out and replacements are hard to find. I picked up a set of the new CVAs for the Worlds Car re-re. As you can see, I had to shim the crap out of it to get the bone end to sit in the diff drive properly. Does anyone see an issue with this (number of shims)? I have on order a set of the rear axle spacers to maybe help reduce the number of shims. She did quite well at the track this past weekend. It was fun to see the younger kids scratching their heads looking at the car.

There is no issue with shims. Looks good. I beleive rear center shaft bones for b44.3 are 1mm or a bit longer and fit the length better.

I will look into that. I sent AE an email asking for all CVA bone lengths. Lets see what they come back with.

Re: shims on inside, I'd be worried about the rim driving up against the bearing; do you have any shims between the pin and outer bearing? If the pin sits too deep in the rim it can cause binding, even with crush tubes (in my experience). I always take the hub off the car and tighten the wheel on to see how it spins when I change wheels.

Is there enough room for thrust bearings? At least that would help with binding. Love the car! Please keep posting, inquiring B2 owners want to know...

The shim count is 8 on the inside, 2 on the outside, which leaves a little bit of play. The B2 manual calls for 3 shims on the outside and the B3 says a thick spacer and 2 shims. Whenever I mount the wheel, I check to make sure I am not crushing the hub. I pull the wheel out and feel for the little bit of play in the hub/axle. Not sure about thrust bearings. I have a setr of these on order:
https://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/9608-ASC9608-rear_axle_wheel_spacers_blue_aluminum/
I am keeping my fingers crossed that AE will come through with their CVA lengths and there will be one that is slightly longer and I can eliminate the massive amount of shims.

So AE emailed me back and they said they don't have a list of CVA bones and their lengths. Find that hard to believe. Next time I go to the track I will see what they have and measure myself.

Tamlok wrote: She did quite well at the track this past weekend. It was fun to see the younger kids scratching their heads looking at the car.

Just wait till I take my Optima tonight, hehe. Bad enough that I run my B5M with a Bandit body. Hehe, good sleeper, everyone always asks "what kinda car is that". You can see they're confusion because this "Bandit" has no motor in the back.


On topic, I'd just go to the hobby shop and look for one that's 1/4" longer, this will get it in the outdrive further, and get rid of the shims. What I have found, having a pile of cars of different brands, is that many use the same dimensions when it comes to bearing sizes and wheel shafts. So don't limit yourself to just Associated. Or if need be get a different bearing to fit the new parts. I've done this many times trying to make things work on my projects.

Pull yours out, and I'll see what I have so you'll know what to buy. Lotsa MIP and Proline parts too.

Why don't you try a B4 bone? That's longer for sure.

Hi Tamlok,
I'll have a B4 CVD in my hands hopefully tomorrow afternoon,
I can measure length for you.

I brought a b4 parts car to do some upgrades to my B3.

b4 will be way too long, and might be the wrong end on the bone. b4 is about .400 longer from what i recall.

it depends on the hubs you're using... and if you want to end up with 25 cm total width and use b4 hubs b4 bones are perect

Substituted the shims with the rear axle spacer (it measures 2mm thick). Got lucky, the amount of shims I used was equal to the width of the spacer. Had to trim down part of the arm so the spacer would clear. Also had to be careful tightening the wheel nut, because the large part of the spacer is against the hub, it will bind if I over tighten.

Why not turn the spacer around so that it doesn't rub or bind?