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knixdad wrote:The original belts would self-destruct in their original packaging, inside of an unopened kit. I built a NIB Rally Weapon a few years back and the belts had decomposed, probably due to the old California air trapped inside. Things can be exposed to California for only so long before they begin to fall apart, just watch TMZ sometime for proof.

Hey, the CA rc10talk crew is having a get together friday night. We're going grill and have some margaritas out by the pool. You're invited...you know, if the snow isn't too bad and keeps you from getting to the airport.

knixdad wrote:The original belts would self-destruct in their original packaging, inside of an unopened kit. I built a NIB Rally Weapon a few years back and the belts had decomposed, probably due to the old California air trapped inside. Things can be exposed to California for only so long before they begin to fall apart, just watch TMZ sometime for proof.

Like you said.. NIB belt circa 1998 It could be the constant ~70deg temps and salt air too. lol

I still have belts in my xx4 that I bought back in 2005 with the rerelease of xx4.. and they are fine. My buddy is still using belts that old or older in his 4 xx4's. Apparently, by running them and wiping them with oil/WD40 it helps make them last.

It doesn't hurt that I also have ~8sets of belts from the last production. I have used the Tough Belts, but not the Bando Style ones being sold now.

Body and wing showed up today. I like this first version better than the hot weather version.

So i have new belts coming, new graphite LCG chassis, and natural white ballcups.

Got this torn down today and the belts were totally gone. Ive got new parts on the way so will see some progress soon.

Got my new chassis in the mail today.

Also look out for the proper diff drive cups. There are some short ones out there, possibly from xx 2wd buggy, that will fit xx4 diffs. Short drive cups will let the CVDs pop out,, got to get proper long diff drive cups.

Just thought I would throw that in here,, as it was a source of frustration for my runner build. I had wanted to use CVDs, but had to use UJs instead because of the short cups.

What is it with the blue trinity kinwald parts? Nobody likes em? I think they are the coolest. I like looking at my blue motor clamp almost as much as fondling a YTCS assembly.

I like the trinity parts. The shafts weren't even close to coming out of the drive cups on this buggy.

The longer outdrives with the aluminum ring on the end of it, I believe are BK2 outdrives. Whichever the xxx buggy that had the redesigned tranny that last 1 buggy version.
The newer mip drives used a losi axle & b4 bone... Like you stated, shorter that the stock universals.. That's why people were grinding the outer VLA hole off the EA3 xxx arms being used on the xx4.

trinity parts are awesome, & rare.. The outdrive protectors save a lot of my plastic outdrives!

If your plan on running your car...

with modern brushless power (like 6.5), just use the steel diff outdrives. If your going to run 17.5/13.5/10.5 (like for vonats), running the plastic outdrives are fine as long as you properly set your slipper clutch to absorb drive train shock, also the plastic outdrives need to be hand-fitted by filing to the dogbone pin to work properly. I ran ball bearing belt rollers.

I recommend using the soft black plastic ball cups from the XXX-SCT, as they are more flexible and break first saving other more expensive and hard to replace parts from breaking (like front shock towers, rear hubs).

Use a tap on all new graphite parts before screwing parts together, fill in extra/optional holes with set screws.

I think I have most of the parts now to start on this.

Nice motor mount

Thanks