RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I'm not a fan of the reversed clips either, I'm normally straightening out everyone elses clips It's all I had so I went with it.

I run my wing in the lowest position which is pretty flush with the tower cut out. I countersink the bottom two holes and run flat head screws.

The inline servo free's up a bit of chassis room, but the main reason is to keep more weight over the front of the car to better distribute the weight front to back.


The reason I asked if you noticed it jacking a rear inside tire in a turn is that in testing it was apparant that off power the car transfered too much weight on the outside front causing the inside rear to lift off the ground with stock arms. Moving the shock in on the rear arm allowed a better balance of weight transfer keeping more more weight back. Niki's ROAR 250mm width front arms have an added third shock hole (one more out from stock) for added tunability.

The car was dynamite on med grip dirt with 2mm carbon chassis, I think being slightly narrower then the modern buggies ultimately gave it more grip overall. I'm keen to hear what set up you end up with.

Thanks for that fellas and good to know about the tower screws also.. Thanks again

I used button head screws as well for the wing mounts. Also, trimming the rear body post is the way I have the body mounted on mine and it works nicely.

I used Ti screws all around, but I crashed so hard this summer that I bent a shock screw and a rear tower screw that goes to the bulkhead oh and the tower cracked too..
So for now on I won't be playing as hard with her anymore now that she's back together. I've got BB shocks on now and ready to gear up for carpet.

And, what do ya mean, red instead of purple?!?!?!? done gone lost your mind

I know...I'm not leaving purple, just side tracking for this build I have my 2 red chassis cars as well (10 & 10T), so it isnt a new trend in the King household.

Wow...that was some kinda hit.

Trimmed up a front & rear mount. Stock RC10 front & AE prolite mount on the rear. Paint should fly this weekend Then track time!!

So...its not purple....maybe some dirt on it will make me feel better about it.

Couple stickers and yellow wheels...looking much better now.

Ran the car on an outdoor dirt track yesterday - oh how I miss nice outdoor tracks.

First test run, I thought I had the wrong tires, rear shocks in outer lower holes, car would snap/spin, no warning. Back to the pits, rebuilt the shocks, putting a limiter inside so the CVDs dont pop out, changed tires (that I had just ran on my re-re Worlds, worked perfect), moved the shocks in one hole on the rear. Droop looked perfect, but on track, exact same problem. Coming out of a corner (180s, low speed) start getting on the throttle (yes, slipper set correctly) sometimes perfect, other times it would swap ends like no tomorrow. No slight slide, just bam and I was pointing the wrong way.

So tuning is needed. Rear pack needs adjusting, I have #1 pistons, 30 wgt, green springs. Feels light. Outside of the snap spin, the car jumps fantastic and turns pretty good.

Interesting, I haven't run the alloy chassis yet so I can't comment on its performance, but with carbon chassis med-grip it would not spin out.

Do you have saddle packs to try?

Here was my set up (carbon) Oil or piston were too stiff but otherwise car was great....

Any more time with this Joey?

Not yet, I'm struggling through some vision issues that should (keyword) prevent me from driving , and busy at work have kept me from hitting the track lately. I'm trying to plan a test run day, but it just hasnt been in the stars.