RC10T1M

[sbcnyc]

thanks for the compliment, im currently about to do the hex conversion too, are you gonna use associated rims? kinda unsure what to use, ive been using sc10/t4.1 cvd's that are a bit longer than the ones for the gt, if you dont use orings in the drive cups, they dont bottom out, you end up having to rebuild the thrust a lot if you run in dusty stuff, was thinking i could stuff a foam from the ball joints in there, the "t" nut side does butt up, but at extreme bottom, and very very little, like a ride heigh shim amount, could just run some bump stops on the shock shaft... or grind a lil bit off the ball end of the dogbone side...

i dont know about the 10t trans/arms, but it might be worth the risk to get sc10 cvd's, i know on my t2, they dont work, but do on the gt...

i ordered a set of blitz front caster blocks and steering knuclkes, they offer leading and trailing steering, instead of trailing only, there bolt in and use metric bearings, shouldnt be an issue for my 12mm conversion

let me know what rims you end up with and take some more shots... your truck is killer!

[rcgerber]

I'm using jconcepts t4 mono wheels. They work and are readily available. I like your thought process on being able to run inline and trailing axle. When doing my hex conversion I wasn't super thrilled to switch to trailing, but it was the only option I knew of. If the longer cvd bone doesn't fit the T2 it won't work on mine. My problem was more of a shimming problem with the axle and hex. As it was, I had to thin the plastic hex down to get the outdrive plunge I was getting. I'm going to get the aluminum hex because it engages the axle pin better and find a thick shim to space the bone into the outdrive. I think the problem is going to be finding a shim thick enough to space the axle properly and doesn't bind on the hub or bearing when the wheel is tightened. I have a washer that works id and thickness, but the od is to big.

Anybody got turnbuckle suggestions I seem to be bending the stock ones easily. I know of lundsford but have heard they bend as well and can be pricey. Anyone use the AE ti turnbuckles?

[sbcnyc]

the longer t4 bone fits the t2... too well... way too long... but for some reason, near perfect for the gt

i just realized you might be using rc10t/t2/gt cvd axles...if you get rc10t4 axles, they space the wheel pin out... there longer, and you can just use the cvd bones you already have... that should totally cure your spacing, ive been using t4 axles for all my trucks that still run the stock mip style cvd's, i think ive been the only guy left not using hex wheels.... id get you the part number but im out of town and away from my hoard of rc10t parts... just look for the original t4 cvd axles as there ment for mip cvd's, not the reversed style the associated ones are... make sure you have the spacer that goes in between the hub carrier bearings... with t4 axles, i run 3 shims, than the big blue associated washer, than the pin, i can crank my rear wheels down beyond tight and still roll for days...im talking TIGHT, and never stripped out a rim since the switch, i got a good picture on my thread for my tub gt-e

on the steering stuff... i stumbled on some forum where a guy posted his sc10 with blitz front hubs...straight up bolt on... the only problem with the blitz caster blocks is they are set for caster, not like associated ones where you can get 20/25/30 degrees, ive been playing with caster/kickup by shimming the bulkhead itself with washers and it has helped the steering, same with the rear arm holders for anti squat, now that i have the correct rear hub carriers, ill have to start all over with my adjustments, but the blitz hubs will keep my steering inline so i wont loose what i already have

if you look at the associated ti vs the lundsford, you would get the lundsford's....they dont bend easy, i have no clue where you herd that from, and if they do, you broke a lot of other parts! (i have bent them, but a lil vice grip action and there still in service)... the ae ones are as thick as the stock steel ones... i run both as my trucks are just parts trucks slapped together and i have a ton of assorted length turnbuckles... lundsford all day... if i was to order them, id get them individually, figure out what ball cups your gonna run and measure, i like the long shank rpm ones, but to save cost the steel turnbuckles are cheap and plentiful, just bend em back, theres really nothing to gain from the ti stuff as far as durability, just weight

gonna get some mono wheels now, there was an ebay auction of what seemed to be 100 t4 mono rims, was going for cheap but i wasnt sure... guess its better i just get one full set... i dont know how id explain that one to my wife...im hoping they dont change the diameter of truck rims/tires like there doing with buggies... but than again... were trying to run 20 yr old trucks, so what real performance are we gonna gain!