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Re: To Re Anodize or Not To Re Anodize - Results and Costs

Posted: Fri Jan 04, 2008 9:21 am
by Erich Reichert
sort of a cool experiment i discovered while fooling around at work (pepsi)... you can pretty closely replicate the blue ano on AE turnbuckles (the FT stuff) by using pepsi and a car battery. I took one lead and clipped it to a wire ring that sat in the bottom of my "tank" (a drinking glass), the other lead goes on the part. Fill the glass with Pepsi which uses a blue dye... believe it or not to make the soda the color it is... and dip the "charged" part into the soda... turnbuckles took me about 10mins but it works pretty good for a make shift ano kit. LOL. I've never reall found any other sodas that work as good as cola though.

Re: To Re Anodize or Not To Re Anodize - Results and Costs

Posted: Fri Jan 04, 2008 11:01 am
by Northy2
Cool, what was the wire you used for the 'wire ring'? Does it matter?

G

Re: To Re Anodize or Not To Re Anodize - Results and Costs

Posted: Fri Jan 04, 2008 2:40 pm
by ra272
Today, i made some shorter nose tubes for my RPM Team car (I used old grey nose tubes). As you can see, the color is very close to the original.

Image

This is my anodisation device (very easy to do, but it use sulfuric acid):

Image

Re: To Re Anodize or Not To Re Anodize - Results and Costs

Posted: Sat Jan 05, 2008 9:53 am
by Northy2
What is the thing with 'hotty' writtern on it?

Can you run us through how to make a set-up like that please?

G

Re: To Re Anodize or Not To Re Anodize - Results and Costs

Posted: Sat Jan 05, 2008 1:26 pm
by ra272
The "hotty" is useless here.

You need:

- A plastic box (tupperware)
- distilled water
-sulfuric acid (automotive battery acid, 40-50%) be carefull, very corrosive.
-aluminium tubes
-a battery charger (not automatic)

Pour the water in the box and then pour the same quantity of acid in the water (always water first).

Hang your part to an aluminium wire and plug it to the positive wire of the battery charger, plug the negative to a big aluminium tube. Put them in the bath as shown in the picture and put the power on.

Image

let it in the bath for 2 hours depending on the size of the part.

Then turn off the charger, and quickly rince the parts with COLD water.

Dry them: they are ready for color. The anodized coat is like a sponge, you can soak the parts with dye or ink: some work well, some not... Red Dylon dye works well, permanent marker ink too.

When you have the good color, boil the parts in water to seal them.

Very important: the parts must be clean, no oil, dust or even fingerprints. Use gloves for every stage.

Sulfuric acid is dangerous : it will burn your skin, your clothes etc etc.... :!: :!:

Re: To Re Anodize or Not To Re Anodize - Results and Costs

Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 10:56 am
by Northy2
Thanks, thats great! :mrgreen:

G