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thanks, your right about not tightening anything until all the parts are there. I just mocked it up for a pic and noticed how far off it was.

I milled the chassis and nose plate today, I used this piece of aluminum tube to hold the chassis in the vice.


side note: automotive detail spray works great to shine up anodized parts

Nicely done

Need to hurry up on this thing, the race I'm building it for is in a couple weeks.

First I made these ball stud lands for the front, vertical adjustment and 3 holes to adjust length and the blocks can turn around to use 2 holes in between. The middle hole is directly above the inner lower hinge pin. Also got a set of Lunsford rc10 world turnbuckles.


arm holders are milled down to get room on the tower for the new holes.


milled down these trinity servo mounts for a low-pro servo


I was a little worried about drilling the holes in the chassis for the servo, they have to be right on to avoid extra stress on the servo. I made a little transfer punch out of a 4-40 screw, worked out pretty good. Used silver sharpie for layout die




Servo is far to left and a lot of changes to the steering.

looks pretty nice! It looks like your upper link is also longer than your lower arm, that's gonna give you some weird camber curves.

Yes, but with a little downward angle toward the center of the car, it has like 1 degree of camber gain. Most all purpose built oval edm and late model chassis have front camber links close to this or even angle up which would have positive camber gain. But most setups start with positive camber on the lf tire anyway. I know it wouldn't work in offroad haha

The car is basically done. Just needs shocks and fit up a body, I originally wanted to make one but they require a production dodc compliment body.

JG front bumper and rear body mount kit. I made rear ball stud lands similar to the front. Custom works rear hubs work perfect, used all the stock parts - spacers bearings ect. Only problem with my kit is the left stub axle, the holes for the chrome pin are .045 off center so it binds really bad.



Cut down the wing tubes and one of the remnant pieces worked perfect as a spacer for the steering link.

Killer My dirt oval bomber hooked up better than all the other lighter cars on the track. I expect you will have the same experience if running against CWs and other light cars. You probably have the shocks sorted but might try 10T fronts with red springs on the rear

Thanks! I'm going to use the stock shocks, it's a buggy edm class and the cars have to use original shocks.

Are you suggesting 10t front shocks and tower?

10T front shock bodies, shafts and springs on the rear, stock RC10 shocks up front. This car is hooked up and required zero adjustments. The class required CW rubber tires, softer springs might be better for foams.

Note that the camber on the front tires is about 25 degrees positive on the stand, spot on when off the stand. I don't have any pics of this surprising swing in camber but you can check out some others on the bomber thread: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=28750

Thanks i have a 10t, I'll try the shocks off it. Cool thread btw, It lead me to the other one with dirt oval setups which has some good info as well.

You are welcome. Good luck racing

Car is almost race ready, got the shocks and the front body post on this weekend. Made a wing for the front, has 3 options for height. I my set of 10t shocks ready but I'm going to try them later on.







If anyone has any setup advice or experience with racing cars similar to this, feel free to chime in. I'm open to any suggestions.

Looks good! Consider mounting the shocks on the left side so that they are more perpendicular to the ground.

Here some photos of the completed car and the race last year

Custom edm style body I made from .030 and .020 lexan







Rainmans Raceway in Bakersfield,CA





Running Slicks, car was super fast early on but got tighter and tighter as track grooved, ended up cutting the back of the body and it helped. Bumped to the A and finished 7th. Bumped from the C to the A in box stock slash. My dads truck on the left, his first rc race finished 2nd in novice class.