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Mate, im tempted to go for your wishbones but unsure white or blue.

My car was ready last week but had some problems with the rear hingepins coming off..bully knows about this problem..been updating him.
layshaft also had some problems but all fixed now. Will do another round of testing tommorow. Hopefully its not a failure like last week.
here are some videos
[youtube]j1L8fqLeZJs[/youtube]


[youtube]JnfgFYwgJgw[/youtube]

latest video

[youtube]mecydA5sKEU[/youtube]

what happened ????

btw your arms rama can one have those in blue ???

mvh isobarik

there was a hole drilled on the side of the motor plate..i think a bit of sand got in.also the rw spur melted a bit. I THINK ITS because i used the smaller slipper pad. Yes arms can be made light blue. Use the bigger area slipper pad and you shouldnt have problems. Funny the associated spurs have no such problems.

URL=http://s185.photobucket.com/user/alcyon2sp/media/20141119_204623_zpsxc5qd51j.jpg.html][/URL]
URL=http://s185.photobucket.com/user/alcyon2sp/media/20141119_204634_zpszekolij4.jpg.html][/URL]
Couldnt re test the car ..rained on saturday and sunday.

i have a 1/10 race coming on the 30th. Will be using my optima mid custom special but will bring this zx as a back up car.

Nice! Where did you get the heat sink motor plate? I can't find them...

Looks like those Tamiya alloy C-carriers worked out fine. Did this need any modification of the steering blocks, and did you have to change the length of the CVD's?

n20capri wrote:Nice! Where did you get the heat sink motor plate? I can't find them...

that's a old GPM motor plate that came with the car.

Coelacanth wrote:Looks like those Tamiya alloy C-carriers worked out fine. Did this need any modification of the steering blocks, and did you have to change the length of the CVD's?

Yes those are the Yeah racing ones you recommended. No modification needed on steering blocks, but it is needed on the arms, if you plan to increase the ride height. The enlarged section on the c hub interferes with the arm. Right now I keep the front low so its ok. I use LA245 62.5mm CVD, but I shim it to push it inwards, and its perfect. With the Standard Lazer ZX C hub you need to shim it outwards.

That lazer rips, what are you running for a motor/battery? I just ordered a leopard 8.5t to stick in my trf201 that I just built, want to see how it stacks up againt my kyosho triumph with a super stock 34, for what it is the triumph is a pretty good car.

rfoxloon20 wrote:That lazer rips, what are you running for a motor/battery? I just ordered a leopard 8.5t to stick in my trf201 that I just built, want to see how it stacks up againt my kyosho triumph with a super stock 34, for what it is the triumph is a pretty good car.

Its now equipped with a turnigy trackstar 10.5T motor, with orca VX esc , ratio at 8.3, boosted 15 degrees.

My ZX with VTS and a candy tube cut short to fit the gear cover.
The slipper was flawless today without any problems with the spur.
However the rest of the car wasn't up to it. My turnbuckles keep coming off, and worse still broke an inner arm mount.


So I can safely declare that the layshaft is a success.
I will fix the arm mounts and hopefully can run the car trouble free in 3 weeks time.
Right now have to concentrate on sundays race.

alcyon wrote:My turnbuckles keep coming off, and worse still broke an inner arm mount.

Rama, are you using the Kyosho "hard" ball-ends? They're pretty heavy-duty and are a grey color, not black. They're a lot harder than the common black plastic variety. They take a bit of effort to snap on, but once they're on, there's almost no friction at all. I'm using them on OptiMutt and on my tie-rods on the Barney car, as shown.

rfoxloon20 wrote:That lazer rips, what are you running for a motor/battery? I just ordered a leopard 8.5t to stick in my trf201 that I just built, want to see how it stacks up againt my kyosho triumph with a super stock 34, for what it is the triumph is a pretty good car.

I wouldnt risk it in the triumph, belt may snap. Until i get given one i wont be able to redesign the rear gearbox to take every wind of motor like my current racer car named by racer mag ZXRS. Cf rear gearbox with tensioners. Should have kept the one i had.

Coelacanth wrote:

alcyon wrote:My turnbuckles keep coming off, and worse still broke an inner arm mount.

Rama, are you using the Kyosho "hard" ball-ends? They're pretty heavy-duty and are a grey color, not black. They're a lot harder than the common black plastic variety. They take a bit of effort to snap on, but once they're on, there's almost no friction at all. I'm using them on OptiMutt and on my tie-rods on the Barney car, as shown.

Thanks coelacanth . Yes i am using those, the problem is my turnbuckles are a little short, so they dont grab enough in the plastic, i have to buy longer ones. Another problem is with the 4 degree caster hubs, i need to bring the ball studs up higher on the knuckles so that i can eliminate bump steer. With plastic knuckles, after a hard hit the threads are stripped. I must change to alloy ones.