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peuge73 wrote: But bad surprise at this time: the complete trans is not free....
I verified with changing the diff for the other I own: the diff is the root cause. It seems that MIP gear is not round.

Did you try and shim the gearbox? It might be bound up with the tightness of the screws or just in need of a shim with fiberwashers

Yes I did.
I started also to rework a little bit some gear box side.
The problem did not come from any axial friction, but clearly from the radial shape of the MIP Gear.
After some search on the net, I saw that a few traxxas users had the same problems (Gears broken at first use, etc).

peuge73 wrote:Yes I did.
I started also to rework a little bit some gear box side.
The problem did not come from any axial friction, but clearly from the radial shape of the MIP Gear.
After some search on the net, I saw that a few traxxas users had the same problems (Gears broken at first use, etc).

Not hard to believe at all. I've had my share of problems with MIP parts. One thing I will say is, give them a call or send an email about your diff issue. They're very good about replacing defective parts. But the problem I ran into is that they're replacement parts usually have the same problem.

Kinda like when you have a bad dining experience and the restaurant gives you a gift certificate to eat there again lol

after the trans is finished, I went to a conventional rebuilt for suspension parts:
for rear side


front side


driveline


In an other hand, I found some rare parts like for steering:



Some free advertising for this nice company:

Looking good!

Just a heads-up on that 1939 hinge pin set. Apparently Traxxas decided to change to the longer front inner hinge pins. I bought the same set for my LS-II build and the front pins are too long. I think they're the newer pins used on the SRT/Slash and VXL models and are longer for use with a front hinge pin brace. Actually a front brace is a good idea, so it may be a blessing in disguise.

Sorry, but I couldn't help it. looking great, but every time I read your title, this comes to mind
[youtube]h0G1Ucw5HDg[/youtube]

harry697 wrote: Just a heads-up on that 1939 hinge pin set. Apparently Traxxas decided to change to the longer front inner hinge pins. I bought the same set for my LS-II build and the front pins are too long. I think they're the newer pins used on the SRT/Slash and VXL models and are longer for use with a front hinge pin brace.

If you're talking about the 'inside front arms axle', I don't have this issue. Strange.

For Marlo: of course, when I identified the car, I thought that these Eagles lyrics were the right title!!!!

peuge73 wrote:

harry697 wrote: Just a heads-up on that 1939 hinge pin set. Apparently Traxxas decided to change to the longer front inner hinge pins. I bought the same set for my LS-II build and the front pins are too long. I think they're the newer pins used on the SRT/Slash and VXL models and are longer for use with a front hinge pin brace.

If you're talking about the 'inside front arms axle', I don't have this issue. Strange.

Yep, those are the ones. Strange for sure. Mine were roughly 1/4" too long. Thought maybe I had them swapped with the rears, but that wasn't the case.

here is the configuration in this area:

(it's not the final screw for the bumper...)

Not any length issue here.

The problem was more about mecanical clearance.
I have adjusted it by the use of spacers and additionnal tightening screws. Also in the rear side.

peuge73 wrote:here is the configuration in this area:

Not any length issue here.

The problem was more about mecanical clearance.
I have adjusted it by the use of spacers and additionnal tightening screws. Also in the rear side.

Thats awesome. I love the set screws on the hingepins. Away with the eclips

BMKTW2 wrote:Thats awesome. I love the set screws on the hingepins. Away with the eclips

I've been seeing that more and more often these days, but frankly I have more faith in e-clips than set screws.

The goal here is not to replace the e-clips, but to reduce the clearance gap between arm and support.
That's why I still have an e-clip on each axle, eeven with the use of screws.

Take your grinder and knock a flat spot in the hinge pin where the set screw goes in and it will hold forever

BMKTW2 wrote:Take your grinder and knock a flat spot in the hinge pin where the set screw goes in and it will hold forever

Not necessarily. The Optima (for example) uses hinge pins & flat spots with set screws all over the place and it seems there's always something coming loose...even when they're threadlocked in. A set screw is only as good as the material it's threaded into, unfortunately, and each R & R, those threads get a bit looser, at least in the case of plastic/nylon.