RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Yeah, those are the ones, been looking for a set for a while.

I'm sure we could work something out

So how do you adjust droop on the rear, I've got waaay too much, the dog bones are trying to bind at max droop. I've searched and see that you can add a piece of tubing to the shock shafts inside the shocks, but it seems like there should be a better way...

Here's how it is now...

fuel tubing or plastic spacers, that is how it's done

The tubing method is how it is done, straight out of the manual.

Huh, okay. Thanks guys

Anyone have a recommendation for a front bumper that would look good on my buggy? "Period correct" (and avalable, lol) would be a bonus

RPM makes mini bumpers, which are on ebay. Make sure you don't get the one for the RC10T, it's too narrow. There is a guy on here that sells them too, search Lohas rc10 on ebay. It's a inverted have round one if you need a physical description for that one.

Thanks, I'll look for those

Got a box of goodies from AE today. A new body and wing, front wheels and tires, rear wheels, and some other miscellaneous hardware, including a FT screw set

I need front wheel bearings for my jelly beans, is 6902 the right PN from AE? If it is.... 50 bux for 4!

I found these on ebay for 13 bux a set, that sounds more like it http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/370975632369?lpid=82

where do you all buy your bearings?

Thanks!

Phin wrote:Use brake fluid to remove the paint from the nylon.

Or buy re-re parts.

So I tried brake fluid tonight and it didn't seem to remove the paint at all. I used Dot 4 synthetic and left a part in it for maybe 20 minutes and nothing, nada. Is there a different grade I need to use or something? What else can I use to remove paint from nylon parts.

Here's my old charger I used back in the day. I bought a NiMH 7 cell for my RC10 after bringing it back here to my place and charged it a few times on the old Juice Machine, being careful not to over charge it (and probably not charging it nearly all the way, either).



So today I sprung for this and charged my pack all the way up. Ran the car for a little while.


After running it, I decided to take the car down for a while and fix everything wrong with it. For starters, I started trimming the new body. I think I am going to (attempt) to paint it like the box art. Shouldn't be too hard since it's just two colors.


Other than the body, I plan on removing the rest of the white and orange paint off everything. The plastic parts were actually all died black by the PO, so once I get the white paint off they should look good.

I'm not sure what to do with the front suspension. I like the fact that it has Ti shock towers on it that I made around 25 years ago, but the Kyosho shock bodies look like crap. I guess I could get some long AE front shocks... Are there .71" stroke shocks available in gold? Can someone tell me how long they are fully extended, eye to eye? How long are the .56" stroke shocks? I suppose I can cut the Ti towers down some...

I also plan on upgrading to brushless/Lipo (Hot Trick ESC for sale in the future), but the car doesn't currently have a slipper and I think the brushless/LiPos would tear everything up with out one. Someone suggested I replace the early MIP trans and Hot Trick motor plate (both also for sale in the future if I don't end up using them) with a 6 or 3 gear AE trans so I can run a slipper. Will a Stealth bolt to my Hot Trick Chassis, or would I need to run a 6-gear?



Would another option be to add a slipper to the MIP box? If I understand correctly, a B3 (?) layshaft and slipper can be added to the MIP trannies that were made for RC10, does anyone know if that's also true for my early MIP box that was made for Tamiya cars?

thanks in advance for the help