RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

At the end of the day every track is different and set ups vary, at least determining a good foundation will get you in the ballpark. I'm glad we can agree on the stock CE set up as a good starting point. Our track is med traction on the racing line so a tub car it is, luckily I have most of the parts to do so.

Jay - Do you have any dimensions on a custom front tower or do you suggest a stock worlds or RPM worlds? I agree with Reg on the truck rear tower, while they look cool the shocks are too upright in my opinion.

How does the RC10 respond to big bores? I have plenty of stock team shocks but am impressed with the big bores on my T4.2. Enough to where I'd consider them for this buggy.

I love the big bores on my buggy. I personally didnt like them at first, the rear was unpredictable and would snap spin without warning. I was going over the buggy on my bench when I noticed the shocks (and the way I spaced them), actually leaned forward at the top. While the rear arm sweeps ever so slightly backward (antisquat) with the shock leaning forward would cause a bind as the suspension compressed. Causing the ill handling. My solution is a ~4mm spacer set up to move the rear shock tower forward and then moved the shocks to the rear of the tower. Car is now fantastic.

Sorry for the pic spam...but here is the shot I was looking for:

Well this is interesting but the CE I just picked up is an early one. Agh. Maybe put all the CE stuff on my Swiss cheesed black tub or just stop being a little girl and race the RERE. I really want to take on some modern stuff with a RC10.

Hmmm, I just had a good look at oranges 10.2 and must say that it's quite clever. I don't know which way to go now. Standard CE front end, truck front end, or just make something up.

I'm leaning more towards the truck nose as I have plenty of parts for it, but not much in the way of buggy stuff.

I have tried both my Reggie racer and my Woin build on a clay indoor track to compare and prefer the woin over the stock-ish car, the difference was that it handles jumps and bumps better.... I have also tried both on a super high bite outdoor blue groove and prefer the Reggie Racer... So I guess for me it depends on the surface. I do know that moving the shock tower forward adjusted some weight to the front of the car and it helped tremendously and the big bores are at a more natural position. I've got some new arms coming from Jake, so there will be more things to test with that car soon.

It can be different out west compared to back east (USA)... When I see videos of cars running back east, the jumps are small and the air time is little... I think they mostly make tracks easy for club racing and technical for big races (Which IMO is how it should be done).. however out west, the jumps are larger and the tracks seem to be more technical, even on a track designed only for club racing. Just an observation of mine. I think if tracks out here were designed as less technical for club racing, I might prefer my more stock-ish car over the woin car, don't know? Still waiting for an easier track to show up so I can make that comparison.

Our local track here is too inconsistant, and the dirt is poor, not to mention chews tires. Track condition goes from super loose to where you can almost run slicks in some spots. On a bad day lap times are in the high 19's but on a good day they can dip into the 17's.

I think the heavier and less stiff RC10's will suit these conditions better.

I ran a RPM front end conversion back in the day with stock rear geometry and it was really good. The rougher the track the better with good setup.. I've got one here setting on ready but gonna try the CE setup first. Me and plastic cars are just not getting along.

Well, I've started to collect a few parts. Hopefully this goes in the direction that I want it to but track testing will be the real decider. I think I'm going to go standard stealth with VTS slipper and pretty standard rear geometry. I've got 3* rear arm mounts and 0* 3/16 truck hubs. I think I'll keep the front end pretty standard CE geometry, I found a couple sets of 25* caster blocks and will likely use the wide GT axles. Do you need the .125 CW wheel spacers to keep the track the same with GT axles?

I still need to figure out which towers I want and need to order a set of big bores.

Sounds like a pretty standard unexciting build, ha ha. I'd like to do something where there is better roll center adjustment but we'll see when the parts arrive.

Wow, I'm a smart cookie..... I just figured out that an old is new "CE" car is basically just a worlds car

Has anyone flopped the standard front bulkheads around and run the shock tower forward like a B4? The geometry looks the same, and looks like it would free up a bit of room for a better camber mount.

The OIN is basically a twist on the RPM Worlds 91 car.

RC10th wrote:Do you need the .125 CW wheel spacers to keep the track the same with GT axles?

The CW spacers are for the rear axles (when using the B44 rear CVA), the GT axles are used in the front.

with the dynotech arms, without the cw spacer the inside of the wheel will hit the frontside of the arm. if you don't care about clearancing the arm, there's no problem. but it also depends on the hub carriers too. i like the losi 2038 hubs. without the spacers the wheel would hit the carrier. not an issue with the rpm gt or cw hubs.

so you don't necessarily need them, but the rear is a tad bit narrow without them.

Man parts aren't cheap, $45 for shock towers, $100 for shocks, $40 for rear hubs, $20+ for VTS slipper set up plus all the extra bits and pieces, axles, wheels and tires etc...... I wont want to run the damn thing.

What's the verdict on front steering blocks? How do the stock steering blocks compare to the longer B4 style steering blocks? The shorter stock ones would give you more ackerman effect but is it too much with the GT axles?

Reg said something about the GT axles killing corner speed and too much ackerman will scrub speed depending on the track, Jaydub likes the GT axles but his car looks to have B4 style steering blocks.

Which blocks are Reg running?

i pulled apart my OIN car a while ago and am currently building a ce based racer.

question: i have yet to mount up any tires, i want to use klein arms in the back and standard wide ae arms up front. anyone see an issue with that?
klein arms do look longer then stock rears. basically i just want to put the ce front end (and rear tower) on a OIN.