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Just get a set of the RC10 battery cups, remove the stock battery cup, and double sided tape the RC10 cup down with your lipo in place. I think the largest you may run is 4500 mah. 5000 is getting a little thick for the rear battery cup.

I've done this with many of my Losi and AE cars and it works just fine. Make sure you use the 3m grey heavy duty double sided tape, the kind with the red peel off backing.

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=12700&hilit=VONATS+jrxt

Chassis already has extra holes drilled so drilling more to properly fit a new battery cup should not be an issue.

Chris

Ok sounds good...so what do i need to throw a slipper in the beast?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TEAM-ASSOCIATED-SC10-Slipper-Clutch-Motor-Plate-Spur-Gear-Fits-RS-FT-T4-T4-1-B4-/231103601327?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35ced91aaf


Slipper shaft losi A3120.

And a small but thick washer just like whats on the rear axles.

Just like this....
Notice that the A-3121 Slipper plate has the long boss.

zuki250.... I hope you are not too dissapointed in the car.. given that I somewhat encouraged you to buy it!

To be honest looking at your pictures, apart from that 'repair' on the driveshaft there isn't anything there that I would have considered unexpected... I reckon judging by the part worn original tyres that it wasn't used too much - but possibly run on a pretty rough surface, causing the grazes to the u/side of the chassis (these don't seem to stand up too well TBH unless the car is run indoors on carpet or outside on grass - the one on my runner has worn down very thin at the back!)

The original shock cartridges all leaked really badly - so i'm not suprised there is no oil in them - both of the used JRX2's that i've brought had siezed shocks. The addition of New style cartridges & polishing up the shafts with ever increasing grades of wet & dry paper will have those shocks working better than new!

I would recommend fitting a slipper clutch - I'm sure it would be fine... but even with a 17.5 these brushless motors generate alot of low down torque... which is what destroys transmissions, they also absorb shocks through the gears caused from crashes - landing off ramps etc. It will also mean that your car would be already should/when you want to upgrade to a faster motor!

Modern Lipo batteries are longer than the old NiCads - which means your front battery cup will need to be fitted further forwards to accomodate it.... but annoyingly not far enough forward to re-drill some fixing holes for the battery cup through a clean area of the chassis - which is why I ended up fitting the RC10 battery cup in mine - as Brandon describes with good quality 3M VHB double sided tape. I've been struggling trying to find batteries that fit into our older cars.... my racer currently uses an old Trak Power 3200mah which fits under the rear bulkhead perfectly... but there's very little out there that is as thin as this battery. I've recently picked up a 'Zippy' 4000 which fits nicely into a DoubleX but it will need the top part of the battery cup in the rear bulkhead cutting out to get it to fit in

This is the spacers(basically rear axle spacer) and also a losi vs slipper comparison...they measure almost exactly the same.

Usually you can find a b4 slipper without the motor guard just plates,discs,gear,spring,cup,nut for like 9.99ish. Then all you would need is the spacer shown.

Or you could go losi tall plate and need to pickup the rest. In either case you will need the shaft for sure.

Ugh...looks like i have alot of research and parts to buy...

Its not too bad....take apart some of it...and throw it in a wash tub.

Order the driveshafts...these tranny parts...you should be under 50 bucks.

Blast apart the tranny and redress it and it's bearings real nice while parts are shipping in. You might want to do same to other bearings. Go back and forth and scrub the parts in the tub with toothbrush and such.

Ohh i know that...I actually just finished rebuilding my optima mid for the Vonats not to long ago...Scrubbed, lubed, and made her all shiny and ready to go... So here is a question..i saw on another jrx2 that the servo was screwed down, while mine was held on with velcro and there are no provisions for screws at all....best to drill and countersink new holes for that? I don't feel real good about servo tape for that...haha

I've never been a fan of tape.

I thought the Optima Mid used screwed-on servo posts? I guess you're referring to the Losi. Anyway, I wouldn't recommend just any double-sided tape, and especially not the white stuff...that stuff is crap. But the thin black tape with the green backing paper is pretty good. That tape is used to mount window wind deflectors and fake hood-scoops and stuff on cars, so it sticks on pretty hard, and can be a pain to remove, actually. Other people swear up and down for Shoe Goo, especially for a racer...but I just wouldn't want to deal with that mess when having to change a servo.

I'm using tape on mine - just make sure its the white/black/clear stuff from 3M with the 'Scotch' patterned backing paper - it goes off over time & is pressure sensitive. We use it at work to hold up all sorts of stuff - heavy wall panels etc.

I have 3m right now...but it is red backed...i know it will work, i just like a solid connection..one less thing to worry about

Just took it apart...and even though some said not to be...i am very dissapointed with this thing...Every screw needs to be replaced...turnbuckles need to be replaced as a bunch snapped...the deck is delaminating around almost every hole...i just went around and put CA around them....oh and the wheels are cracked...def not happy about it