RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Coelacanth, it has to do with the verbiage, combined with my mood yesterday after a long day of dealing with a$$hats on all ends of my business. Saying "to fix it" instead of "to change it" implied that there was something wrong with my method, rather than it simply being a different approach (also a better one for this particular application), and that just rubbed me the wrong way. The fact that there were no other replies, no discussion besides this silly criticism made me decide to simply delete the content to avoid further annoyance.

Overreaction? Perhaps a bit. Again, I was short tempered and predisposed to being offended yesterday for myriad reasons.

I can certainly handle constructive criticism, but constructive is the operative word there; criticizing just because you would do it differently amounts only to insult. There are appropriate and inappropriate ways to mention the alternate methods of skinning a cat.

Well, I apologize if it seemed insulting, it wasn't intended that way...I even used a smiley in my initial comment. I know what you mean about a bad day resulting in a short fuse, I've been there a time or two (dozen).

I like the hacked-up stuff some of you guys have come up with!

I don't tend to do it much with my RC10 builds because I like to use original/period parts, but you should see some of the stuff I've invented on my crawlers. My brother's step kids' Honcho is currently sporting a front bumper made from some random nylon scraps, aluminum rod and zip ties. Kids will find a way to break anything!

Just like in the 1:1 car/truck world, anyone with deep enough pockets can buy the best of the best. But the ingenuity of the cheap guys is just as impressive.

Well, since I'm in a much better mood today, and since some people seem interested now, here is the beast:



It's a Beeman X8 150A ESC & 2150KV sensored combo I scored for a really good price. I had a chance to run it on the track a little today, and I gotta say, I am impressed. With the 20T pinion (14T is stock on the 3500 KV 550 can), acceleration is roughly the same on 3S, though it is slightly slower on the top end than the OEM combo was. However, this ESC is far more tunable than the stock SC900 or the SC1200 I switched to in the interim. More importantly, after 15 minutes of hard, non-stop running, motor temp was a whopping 111*F, and the ESC never went over 95* at the hottest point I could measure. Compare this with egg-frying temps on the 550 can after a similar run.

Truck now curbs at 6.54 lbs w/6,600 mAh 3S - just a couple ounces over stock, so handling wasn't adversely affected. To the contrary, I had FAR fewer tumbles from over-correcting in mid-air due to the smoother operation of this ESC. With either Associated ESC, it was very touchy to adjust angle in flight.

I haven't received my 4S pack yet, and I don't know when I'll get around to ordering up a 6S (the combo is so-rated), but I am very happy with it on 3S for track use. Granted, it's now illegal in any racing class, but I don't do the ROAR/IFMAR thing anyway.

The wire tie technique is exactly what we use on the plug wires on the race cars. Nothing wrong with that

Sixtysixdeuce wrote:Coelacanth, it has to do with the verbiage, combined with my mood yesterday after a long day of dealing with a$$hats on all ends of my business. Saying "to fix it" instead of "to change it" implied that there was something wrong with my method, rather than it simply being a different approach (also a better one for this particular application), and that just rubbed me the wrong way. The fact that there were no other replies, no discussion besides this silly criticism made me decide to simply delete the content to avoid further annoyance.

Overreaction? Perhaps a bit. Again, I was short tempered and predisposed to being offended yesterday for myriad reasons.

I can certainly handle constructive criticism, but constructive is the operative word there; criticizing just because you would do it differently amounts only to insult. There are appropriate and inappropriate ways to mention the alternate methods of skinning a cat.

Overreaction? i dont think so you made your point and you put people in there place and i enjoy that.. Coelacanth my comments are not directed to you .. it was just the first thing that came to my mind when i saw someone delete post cause of what people said .. if anything really set me off it was the "Are you taking your toys and going home? " its like you can tell the guy is upset and this is said cause someone wants to be funny.. would that be said in front of that guys face i dont think so . i try to never cause harm to anyone in any way. its not good and its bad karma but 20 years ago some kid said that and rolled eyes at me i bet there would be a Physical Confrontation.

gomachv wrote:The wire tie technique is exactly what we use on the plug wires on the race cars. Nothing wrong with that

i really like the ziptie idea .. i bet it would be good for sodering too.. i think you can do this 2 ways (i forgot the other) is this how it was on your car Sixtysixdeuce? looks like you did it a different way but i cant really tell in pic.... [youtube]XkWyWaZn5Fg[/youtube]

Your right, now that I look closer it looks like it's assembled in a chain style arrangement, but still the idea and end result are the same

gomachv wrote:Your right, now that I look closer it looks like it's assembled in a chain style arrangement, but still the idea and end result are the same

cool so im not crazy there is a way to have zipties assembled in a chain style arrangement .. i wish i remembered

You may still be crazy however keep in mind we are adults playing with toy cars

losiXXXman wrote:There is a fine line between fabricating something yourself that looks cool and performs well, and say something that looks backwoods engineer-ed or "hack." That said, most stuff I've made myself tends to be of the "hack" variety, and therefore I don't put it our for criticism. (If I can tell it's hack, I know others will too! )AND, when I perceive something I see on here or elsewhere as hack, I withhold my comment and say nothing. (That doesn't mean that every topic I didn't comment on was hack BTW )

You also will find that a lot of the crew here are former racers, (some currently still racing) and racers tend to be pretty specific about what's desirable and what's not in a chassis.

Check this one out for example: I'm REAL proud of my handi work... LEt the Comments begin.

this is why i love rc10s !!!!!!!! this is why i go on this site!!!! i never thought of this i may try a set up like this on one of my gold pans thanks..

longboardnj wrote:

gomachv wrote:The wire tie technique is exactly what we use on the plug wires on the race cars. Nothing wrong with that

i really like the ziptie idea .. i bet it would be good for sodering too.. i think you can do this 2 ways (i forgot the other) is this how it was on your car Sixtysixdeuce? looks like you did it a different way but i cant really tell in pic.... [youtube]XkWyWaZn5Fg[/youtube]

Sorry guys, I just had to say I really don't like that idea for plug wire looming. The wires are much too close together and could easily touch each other just an inch or two above/below the zip-ties. It would likely be at risk of causing cross-firing and looks ghetto. For under $5 you have a choice of many kinds of wire separator sets that would do a far better job and keep the wires at least a quarter-inch apart. For under $13, I bought a set of 6 nice billet aluminum separators that look good, install a whole lot quicker, and do a proper job of wire separation. Just sayin'.

http://www.rc10talk.com/download/file.php?id=65212&mode=view

Sorry guys, I just had to say I really don't like that idea for plug wire looming. The wires are much too close together and could easily touch each other just an inch or two above/below the zip-ties. It would likely be at risk of causing cross-firing and looks ghetto. For under $5 you have a choice of many kinds of wire separator sets that would do a far better job and keep the wires at least a quarter-inch apart.

Like it or not, it's an old school trick that works just fine. The point of plug wire looms is to keep them from flopping all over the place and rubbing through to the core; ignition cables can certainly contact each other with no ill effects.

Go poke around a drag strip for an afternoon, and I promise you'll see a whole lot of zip tied ignition cables and wires.

I like nice, pretty looms, too, but you can't always find a good fit. As well, I cannot count the number of cable sheaths I've seen damaged pushing the wires into the loom or clamping them.

For under $13, I bought a set of 6 nice billet aluminum separators that look good, install a whole lot quicker, and do a proper job of wire separation. Just sayin'.

Yeah, much better to clamp down on the wires with a conductive metal piece than separate them with plastic ties..........

Zip ties are-

Ghetto Fabulous-
Ghetto Handcuffs-
Better than duct tape-
Non-conductive-
Non-corrosive-
Non-habit-forming-

I used them on my 84' supra seats during re-upholstery, instead of those damn hog-rings-

I remember a thread in the Losi section where someone put a smaller BL motor in a JR-X2 or T and it worked good.

Edit: JK Racing's link:

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=23998&start=45