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I'm going to disregard the re-re manual entirely (built enough RC10's I shouldn't need one anyway).

For nostalgia sake I'm referencing the og manual...

scr8p wrote:put a spacer behind the lower shock mount.

I did not notice that before, but I will add a spacer. Thanks!

SFC K wrote:

scr8p wrote:put a spacer behind the lower shock mount.

I did not notice that before, but I will add a spacer. Thanks!

Six of one, half a dozen of the other, for the most part. The spacer on the lower mount puts more stress on the screw, and will lead to more flexing in the suspension overall, but you don't have to do any trimming of the shock tower. Of course, this isn't needed when you run the rear arm mounts in the forward position.

GreenHell wrote:I'm going to disregard the re-re manual entirely (built enough RC10's I shouldn't need one anyway).

Except for which outdrive gets the thrust bearing and which outdrive gets the nut, and which side the nut should end up on, I could pretty much build any Stealth-based car without a manual.

i've never broke a screw, or an arm doing it.

Ah, but you could....

i could drive a ford too......

scr8p wrote:i could drive a ford too......

Have you driven one...lately?

no, but i had to push a few.

scr8p wrote:no, but i had to push a few.

The only vehicle at my house that doesn't move under its own power has a bowtie on it. You can come over and push that if you’d rather.

no thanks, i have 3 chevy's to push around at the shop. and a henry j.

SteveK wrote:

SFC K wrote:

scr8p wrote:put a spacer behind the lower shock mount.

I did not notice that before, but I will add a spacer. Thanks!

Six of one, half a dozen of the other, for the most part. The spacer on the lower mount puts more stress on the screw, and will lead to more flexing in the suspension overall, but you don't have to do any trimming of the shock tower. Of course, this isn't needed when you run the rear arm mounts in the forward position.

Anyone tried to install the rear arm mounts in the forward position? I'm pretty sure that the arms will hit the side of the bulkhead.

I think they forget a step in the manual:

Wheels/Tires and Body-Bag J-Step 9

The body is too narrow and will rub badly on the chassis, gently bend the edge of the chassis with a plastic hammer. TIP: Use painting tape to protect your chassis.

Wow! That thing is Hammered!


*runs off before the rotten fruit can fly*

Chris

SteveK wrote:

GreenHell wrote:I'm going to disregard the re-re manual entirely (built enough RC10's I shouldn't need one anyway).

Except for which outdrive gets the thrust bearing and which outdrive gets the nut, and which side the nut should end up on, I could pretty much build any Stealth-based car without a manual.

havent worked on or assembled or even thought about the stealth diff nut in close to 4 years... but the diff screw hex is on.... the passenger side?