Pretty lousy quality for $250.00

[kink]

You can use original AE wheels and use modern 2.2" tyres. I personally went for black, but white are available too. They work with my original 1/4" UJs and CE hubs perfectly. I forget the model names (from the TQ or CE I think). I stashed x16 NIP examples

[rc10uk]

Kink that is a sign of OCD!

But if you can post up the part code.. all is forgiven. Can you still get them front and rears matching?

[SnoopMaxx]

Kink that is a sign of OCD!

But if you can post up the part code.. all is forgiven. Can you still get them front and rears matching?

I got loads of original CE and B2 wheel and tyres in my basement
time to dig them out and see how many are still in working order and not affected by dry rot

[knixdad]

If it went together without hand fitting of parts and swapping of hardware, I would be seriously disappointed.

[SteveK]

I can't even fit the two 5/16" bearings into the out drive gear now. This is so disappointing and frustrating.

[SFC K]

I can't even fit the two 5/16" bearings into the out drive gear now. This is so disappointing and frustrating.

Man, I hope I don't this issue with mine...I order the same bearings...

[SteveK]

I can't even fit the two 5/16" bearings into the out drive gear now. This is so disappointing and frustrating.

Man, I hope I don't this issue with mine...I order the same bearings...

The other out drive is fine, both slip in and out very easily. There is some surface rust and a film in the teeth of the problematic out drive, so that may have something to do with it. I washed them both with motor spray and gave them a bath in Moo Slick. I measured the holes with a digital caliper as best I could, and they were close, at most a half a thousandth smaller on the bad one.

The hand-fitting thing would be fine if these weren't brand new parts. I don't get mad at a Revell model kit that I know what first tooled in 1975 (well, I don't get AS mad; they still have a lot of nerve to charge as much as for kits with less detail and worse quality as they do for brand new ones).

[REMJ666]

I am glad that I cancelled my kit...I still might get one but I will keep it in the box...Once again Chinese quality control...

[R/Cat]

I'm through four steps and I had to give up for the night. The chassis anodizing is some odd brown color, not even close to a Stealth CE I just bought, and the coloring is uneven and blotchy. At least all the holes were countersunk, but of course they aren't deep enough and the few screw heads I put in protrude. The screws are also some odd color, almost like the green Team shocks.

The castor blocks were warped, and were a tight fit on the steering blocks until I touched them up with a Dremel. The fit between the arms is pretty loose, but it isn't a major problem because the holes in the arms are misaligned and the hinge pins bind up. If the parts were designed properly, then they were molded very poorly, or maybe they were warped before they cooled properly. At that point I gave up for the night, I'll have to figure out something to do for the arms until I can get a hold of their customer service on Monday. I might as well build the rest of the kit and address all the problems with them at one time.

Wow, very surprising to read. Mine should be here this Tuesday and I can tell you that, after being spoiled by the consistently perfect fit and finish of multiple Tamiya kits over the last few decades, this filing, shaving and fitting of parts for the RC10 is going to be annoying to me. Whether it's the result of poor Chinese QC or just the way all RC10s were/are, I'll be frustrated if/when it doesn't go together easily.

[kink]

Whether it's the result of poor Chinese QC or just the way all RC10s were/are, I'll be frustrated if/when it doesn't go together easily.

As I said above, certainly not ALL RC10s were like this. The Worlds is as easy as can be, like any Kyosho. The older the kits the more issues I think. For example, on the slightly older CE model sometimes you need to tinker with the front axle diameters a touch. The oldest original version appears to have more issues again. As others have said, back in the day it was like that for non Japanese kits.

[Johnboy72]

Steve, that sucks man. I'm still jealous that you have all the damn hobby shops in your area. I'm gonna get stuck in a spot where I'm gonna have to just write a shopping list and drive down there.

[ca-rj]

I agree, the fit and finish is now what I expected either. These days, having to file and ream parts to get them to fit right is just unacceptable. I'm sure it's great for all you nostalgic buffs, but it sure did bug me. The last kit I built was a Tamiya TRF201 and it was the best build I have completed to date. Oh well, I'm still excited about the car and can't wait to get the electronics in it and run it.

[knixdad]

Wow, very surprising to read. Mine should be here this Tuesday and I can tell you that, after being spoiled by the consistently perfect fit and finish of multiple Tamiya kits over the last few decades, this filing, shaving and fitting of parts for the RC10 is going to be annoying to me. Whether it's the result of poor Chinese QC or just the way all RC10s were/are, I'll be frustrated if/when it doesn't go together easily.

I just finished a Re-Re Fox. I spent at least an hour sanding the arms and hinges to get them to move without binding. Even the newest Tamiya's I put together require a little hand work to make them work correctly.

Honestly it seems like they managed to recreate a lot of the extra work that went into building an early 80's RC. Dunno if that was on purpose.

[markbt73]

I never built an RC10 buggy from new, but I did build a fiberglass 12L and a graphite 10LSO from new. Both had pretty tight fits on parts and required some hand-fitting and finishing. But once they were together, they had zero slop at all, and the 10SLO is still tight as a drum 20 years later (I sold the 12L ages ago). Compare that with pretty much any Tamiya kit: sure, the parts nearly assemble themselves if you shake the box violently enough, but the finished product is sloppy and wobbly from the very start. (I understand the TRF kits are better, but I've never built one, so I can't speak from experience about them.)

And both of them seem to be the way the are on purpose: Tamiya wants their kits to be easy to assemble, and Associated wants theirs to be perfect when assembled carefully. And personally, I can see the appeal of both building experiences. Sometimes it's nice to know that you can just drop a piece in place and it will fit, and other times it's gratifying to have to install it, check the fit, take it back apart, shave a tiny bit off something, and try again, and know that when you DO get it right, it's because of your skill and handiwork, not someone else's ability to churn out perfect mass-produced parts.

[badhoopty]

my god...

cleaning an outdrive and bathing it it lube aint really gonna do jack, get some fine sandpaper and roll it up around a pencil or whatever, stick it in the hole and spin it.

repeat as needed until the bearing fits... its not rocket science.

if you dont have access to a thin pencil like object and some fine sandpaper, heat up the outdrive with a heatgun or oven to expand it, and also put the bearings in the freezer. might even be able to deburr the bearing edge of the outdrive with an exacto knife.

what i really want to say is man up and stop bitching about how disappointed you are in this kit, because really, im dissapointed in you and everybody like you who cant use basic fabrication methods to get parts to fit together.