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Could be a heat thing. The body fillers I have used get hot quick when they start to set. I like using a slow, finishing resin or if I am using standard epoxy resin, I'll mix it a little less than suggested to get a cure to touch time of about one hour. Maybe even a little longer.

Like I said in the earlier post, I destroyed my original driver. It clouded over and was a bit tricky to get out. but it came out. That is why I have not tried this on a body yet. Plus it is heavy stuff. So if you tried filling a body with epoxy, it will need braced on the outside. I pit my protech body in a box of sand when I filled it with plaster. I was highly impressed with the results, but once my kids found it, it was done for.

Maybe you could shoot an E-Mail to Gary McAllister and ask him the best way to go about it... Hell, if you make a good permanent mold according to his instructions he might buy it off of you.

[email protected]

Bob

i know a guy that bought one of the sears craftsmen compu carve thingies, maybe i could try and 3d model a body and carve it from wood, easy to sand and finish then

http://www.sears.com/carve

If it has enough z axis, it could work. Too bad they don't make a 3d digitizer for it.

ya i didnt think about height clearance, doing it in 2 peices would be a disaster lol.

Wow guys, I started this thread this morning and there is already a LOT of input here, like temple use to say those days, this place is really awesome, keep the ideas coming guys. I honestly think wood is the simpliest and more economic way, you just need some wood crafting skills...

The fibreglass idea is a really good idea you need the patience thats all, as for cloudiness never happened to me, maybe got lucky but there was a guy on fleabay selling the proline fj bodies in fibreglass and he made a killing

I really need to work out how to make a durable wing mould

G

Northy2 wrote:I really need to work out how to make a durable wing mould

G

that might be easier with the wood or make you're own with styrene or lexan sheet my 2 cents

Erich Reichert wrote: Tad did how did you get the epoxy to not stick to the lexan? Did you have to put something on it?

Use a spray wax to coat the inside. You need to use 3-4 coats and then polish it up to give the smooth surface finish you need. You can use any wax, but spray versions are just easier to apply.

Northy2 wrote:I tried some resin body filler and it stuck like crap to a blanket to the lexan, and made it go cloudy

Body fillers are very aggressive and are designed to stick to any surface it can. As you've found the chemicals in it aren't good for the lexan, the same with epoxy.

terry.sc wrote:

Erich Reichert wrote: Tad did how did you get the epoxy to not stick to the lexan? Did you have to put something on it?

Use a spray wax to coat the inside. You need to use 3-4 coats and then polish it up to give the smooth surface finish you need. You can use any wax, but spray versions are just easier to apply.

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There is also a myriad of release waxes you can buy. Just be careful what you use if you think you may ever paint the body. I laid some glass up in one last night. Hopefully when I get home, I'll be able to pull it. It is going to look like crap cause I use cloth instead of chop but it is an experiment. It would be easier to chop some shake....I mean shake some chop in the top

Hi Guys,
Looking to do some reproductions, but will start with an undertray with a wooden mold first to get used to it.

Got a few questions if that's cool?

-What size and thickness of lexan sheet do you use in order to mold a buggy shell, and what size for a truck or TC shell?
-How hot do you make the oven, and am I right you wait for the middle to drop about an inch or so before putting it on the mold and vacuuming it?
-Do you have to hollow out the mold and drill small holes in the detailed areas to pull the lexan in as I've seen on some molds?
-Is there any particular grade/type of lexan or polycarbonate that you use?

Also Asso-man, it seems your links aren't working on here, or am I just having pc issues (as usual?)

Thanks for your help guys, very onformative thread.

Jim

Keyz wrote:Hi Guys,
Looking to do some reproductions, but will start with an undertray with a wooden mold first to get used to it.

Got a few questions if that's cool?

-What size and thickness of lexan sheet do you use in order to mold a buggy shell, and what size for a truck or TC shell?
-How hot do you make the oven, and am I right you wait for the middle to drop about an inch or so before putting it on the mold and vacuuming it?
-Do you have to hollow out the mold and drill small holes in the detailed areas to pull the lexan in as I've seen on some molds?
-Is there any particular grade/type of lexan or polycarbonate that you use?

Also Asso-man, it seems your links aren't working on here, or am I just having pc issues (as usual?)

Thanks for your help guys, very onformative thread.

Jim

-Typical lexan thickness is .030 of an inch. The thicker bodies are .060
-Oven temps will vary on lexan thickness, how fast you want it, etc. It was trial and error for me. I use high heat but my lexan cradle is too big for my over. That is being reworked.
-Hollow out; no. Drill; maybe. Depends on what you are pulling. An undertray would not require it since it is a very simple, flat design. But a couple SMALL homes will not hurt it. Try to do it somewhere inconspicuous like a screw hole or mounting point that will be drilled out anyway.
-I use DuPont I think. I image the differences are not that important.

Similar, yet perhaps off topic,

I have an RC10T body, its been cut, but not painted. My friend gave me the kit a while ago and its in really good shape, however, the front body holes on the body are drilled in-correctly, and I want to fill and re-drill the holes. How would one fix it?

Are there threads on here about fixing bodys? Could this be a candidate for making replicas?


MOmo

MOmo wrote:Similar, yet perhaps off topic,

I have an RC10T body, its been cut, but not painted. My friend gave me the kit a while ago and its in really good shape, however, the front body holes on the body are drilled in-correctly, and I want to fill and re-drill the holes. How would one fix it?

Are there threads on here about fixing bodys? Could this be a candidate for making replicas?


MOmo

You could cast a mold of this simply by putting tape over the outside of the body and when the mold is dry, sand it down to blend it with the original flow. If you wanted to repair it and make another hole, you tape it up on the outside again but put the back of the tape over the hole so the adhesive does not stick to the epoxy. Then put several more strips of tape over it to hold it down. Then flip the body over and apply a little bit of 5 minute epoxy. When it is cured, it will be clear and you can paint over it. You can lightly sand the area inside the body to help blend in the lines. When you paint it, the paint should flow into the sanding marks and hide the scratches.