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REMJ666 wrote:It cleaned up very well...

X2! The meter on that charger is as big as a modern tablet, which I think is awesome.

Nice score!

OK, now i recall an important question i wanted to ask the experts... What are the most common tool sizes i need to have on hand to work on this? allen wrench sizes and nut socket sizes

You've probably figured it out by now, but socket sizes 3/16, 1/4 5/16 & 11/32, Hex key sizes 0.050", 1/16" & 3/32", a # 2 phillips, a small flat head (for the E-clips) and a pair of sturdy needle nose pliers are pretty much all you need to work on vintage Associated stuff.

Sixtysixdeuce wrote:

OK, now i recall an important question i wanted to ask the experts... What are the most common tool sizes i need to have on hand to work on this? allen wrench sizes and nut socket sizes

You've probably figured it out by now, but socket sizes 3/16, 1/4 5/16 & 11/32, Hex key sizes 0.050", 1/16" & 3/32", a # 2 phillips, a small flat head (for the E-clips) and a pair of sturdy needle nose pliers are pretty much all you need to work on vintage Associated stuff.

What he said... I can tell what I need when I see it, but have no idea of any measured sizes.

i think i really need to get to rebuilding the front shocks on it and getting new wheels and tires. the front wheels - or at least one of the front wheels - hops pretty bad when turning hard in the parking lot, is that normal? my rc18t doesnt do that so maybe its the foamie's offset or small diameter if not the shocks. one of the front shocks does have the bent shock rod i havent gotten to yet. (I dont drive my rc's very frequently)

links to the most simple front wheel and rear wheel options currently available anyone? ive read several, just havent pulled the visa trigger yet on anything wheel related.

I was running my rc18t the other day after finally getting a lipo charger and i really like it more and more. i switched from a 22tooth to 11tooth pinion prior to the lipo run... i might switch back bc i didnt have a spur gear cover on and either scuffed it on the ground or the pinion tore it up a bit bc it the motor mount came loose and i need a new spur gear now (and a cover), i think im going to use the 55 tooth spur with the 22 pinion, and also order a 15tooth pinion to try out. The rc18t has a mamba 25a esc and motor. After running the 11t/60t (before it failed) the motor ran a lot cooler than it had with a 22/60 with mh 6 cell in the past. I also have a rolling rc18t that i want to build into a rc18r project. maybe rc18r-d

who else is running rc18 chassis?? nice little car i got mine about a year or more ago one with mamba and a team associated AM controller along with an rc18t rolling chassis missing one dif all for 80 or 100... also can with one mh bat and 1 lipo (which i was able to revive and balance with my new imax b6 charger ). I killed the nimh battery apparently using my old nicd protec charger it had puffed a little or got way to hot the last time i tried it charging it, but i had managed to charge it a few times before that.

I ordered a new Jconcepts Detonator body set at my LHS yesterday! and some new steering blocks bc i broke one in my street the last time i drove it. Once the Jconcepts RC10 classic wheels and tires get released i am going to get some of dem and take it to the local track.


I got a Sukura XI sport in september and have been mainly playing with that and some drift tires, i want to take it to the track soon also.

All - my - friends... love the low rider...