Questions about my ancient, hodgepodge RC10 graphite
Re: Questions about my ancient, hodgepodge RC10 graphite
Addendum: The RPM front and rear CA kits do not appear to have the chassis-side brackets/mounts, and I can't seem to find them on their site. Any tips on where to find them?
- scr8p
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Re: Questions about my ancient, hodgepodge RC10 graphite
if you're talking about the rear arm mounts, those have been discontinued for years. they're an ebay item.
stock fronts can be found pretty much anywhere.
stock fronts can be found pretty much anywhere.
Re: Questions about my ancient, hodgepodge RC10 graphite
Strange - having trouble finding the stock fronts (eBay only has the Dual Sport fronts listed right now). Found a pair of rears that I'm tempted to order but I'm not entirely sure they're exactly what I need:scr8p wrote:if you're talking about the rear arm mounts, those have been discontinued for years. they're an ebay item.
stock fronts can be found pretty much anywhere.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321055128336
Will those work?
Also, are there *ANY* generations of RC10 buggies whose arm mounts will line up with the Gold Pan-era RC10 chassis?
- jwscab
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Re: Questions about my ancient, hodgepodge RC10 graphite
Flargen, those mounts may work, but the robinson system used an adjusting link in the middle to change the toe angle. I'm not sure if you can bolt them down completely without those other parts.
the front arm mounts are here:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2512&P=7 (true, order pending, hopefully that means they are getting more) otherwise, i'm sure a ton of hobby shops still have stock.
CA is cyanoacrylate, ie, crazy glue. I have used a drop to fix a stripped shock shaft eyelet, and other items before. if it adheres to the screw too well, it will be a tough removal, which is why I suggested adding oil to the threads, and use a philips head so you can lean on the screws when it comes time to remove them. Otherwise, you just need to find another case. really, for the case/trans/motor plate, ebay is where it's at.
the front arm mounts are here:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2512&P=7 (true, order pending, hopefully that means they are getting more) otherwise, i'm sure a ton of hobby shops still have stock.
CA is cyanoacrylate, ie, crazy glue. I have used a drop to fix a stripped shock shaft eyelet, and other items before. if it adheres to the screw too well, it will be a tough removal, which is why I suggested adding oil to the threads, and use a philips head so you can lean on the screws when it comes time to remove them. Otherwise, you just need to find another case. really, for the case/trans/motor plate, ebay is where it's at.
Re: Questions about my ancient, hodgepodge RC10 graphite
You rock, thanks a ton! Didn't even look at Tower Hobbies due to failed searches previously.jwscab wrote:Flargen, those mounts may work, but the robinson system used an adjusting link in the middle to change the toe angle. I'm not sure if you can bolt them down completely without those other parts.
the front arm mounts are here:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2512&P=7 (true, order pending, hopefully that means they are getting more) otherwise, i'm sure a ton of hobby shops still have stock.
CA is cyanoacrylate, ie, crazy glue. I have used a drop to fix a stripped shock shaft eyelet, and other items before. if it adheres to the screw too well, it will be a tough removal, which is why I suggested adding oil to the threads, and use a philips head so you can lean on the screws when it comes time to remove them. Otherwise, you just need to find another case. really, for the case/trans/motor plate, ebay is where it's at.
Re: Questions about my ancient, hodgepodge RC10 graphite
Looks like I'm picking up a pair of RC10B4 rollers with wheels/tires/bodies (one Factory Team, one RTR) for $100 here in a few minutes, along with a full LiPo/ESC/Brushless/charger setup for $60 (nothing spectacular), which means this project no longer has urgency. Patience will soon be a virtue.
Looking forward to having something that doesn't break every lap thanks to childhood abuse, lol
Looking forward to having something that doesn't break every lap thanks to childhood abuse, lol
Re: Questions about my ancient, hodgepodge RC10 graphite
Good progress thus far:

Up next (waiting for parts):
Wishful thinking (haven't fully committed yet):
- Converted rear to B4 RTR dogbones, stubs, and hubs - now able to run 2.2" modern wheels.
- Dyed a few parts, including the front shock tower.
- Painted my horrifically-cut body with some old-fashioned Rustoleum. This'll only be a practice/beater body (hoping to run with some other vintage guys locally).
- B4-era topshaft and slipper conversion. Luckily, I had an RPM gear cover that fits over the shaft with the cap in place.

Up next (waiting for parts):
- RC10B4.1 Worlds V2 shocks... Found a seller on RCTech who immediately upgraded to big bores. Getting a hell of a deal on the never used, unassembled 0.89" front and 1.18" rear shocks (along with a brand new full spring set).
- RC Carbon Works short rear shock tower.
- RC Carbon Works extended front shock tower.
- Full new turnbuckle set all the way around (the jackhole who owned it before me 20 years ago has a different turnbuckle length at every corner, mixed inconsistently with ball caps and captured ball ends).
- New RPM fixed bellcrank link, new front and rear arms.
- Tons of Dubro HD captured ball ends for suspension links, possibly steering (not 100% on this - feel free to chime in).
- AE B4/B44 CVDs now that I know the hubs got everything set up right.
- Rogue Element Components aluminum stealth transmission case. Setting this up for long-term abuse.
Wishful thinking (haven't fully committed yet):
- Obtain ASC7364 rear arm mounts (0-degree) and convert to aluminum outers.
- Decide whether or not I want to run B4 trailing arm axles up front, or inlines (would need to drill out the kingpin holes in the inline axle shafts to 1/8").
- Get some ~3/32" aluminum sheet and make a custom front end skid to protect the underside of the chassis at the kick-up (a couple layers of CF are missing in a few spots due to abuse).
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