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IMO it might make more sense to purchase the same cars for the kids. That way parts cars you may purchase will offer up parts for all your cars.

I recently picked up a used T3 basher because parts are readily available. Additionally, new parts are available from more recent productions as the Thunder Tiger Phoenix and MRP ripper are essentially the same buggy/truck.

I saw a new RTR MRP Ripper listed for $115 BIN. Others are listed between $130-$150.

knucklebuster wrote:IMO it might make more sense to purchase the same cars for the kids. That way parts cars you may purchase will offer up parts for all your cars.

I recently picked up a used T3 basher because parts are readily available. Additionally, new parts are available from more recent productions as the Thunder Tiger Phoenix and MRP ripper are essentially the same buggy/truck.

I saw a new RTR MRP Ripper listed for $115 BIN. Others are listed between $130-$150.

Thank you for that, that sir is a brilliant idea. Looks like most of the parts would swap right out and you could upgrade it with Associated T3 parts. I really like that idea.

You are welcome. Thanks to the site, I recently learned that the MRP Ripper is same as the B3/T3. I bought the T3 knowing that the Phoenix was available, the MRP is a bonus parts option.

I stick with Associated because so many parts, nuts and bolts are interchangeable. No mixing standard and metric, etc. Having said that, I do know that the Phoenix and assume the MRP use phillips head screws. I assume the thread pattern is standard.

The Duratrax Element is programmable and is compatible with Castle Link. Here's the full feature list: http://www.duratrax.com/motors/dtxc3122.html

Sorry I have not gotten around to the wiring pics but I do have a pic of the B3 wiring before i took the electronics out. As you can see three wires connect to the motor from the ESC, those are already there. The red and black wires coming out the other end need to be connected to the battery connector of your choice.

Regards,

Ren



. by 2500M_Sub, on Flickr

Hey thanks for the pic! Was on vacation for awhile, in the mean time my boxes of parts started showing up and I have the chassis put back together, also rebuilt the diff and shocks. Now I'm waiting for the AC680 charger to show up and one NIMH battery I ordered to test electronics.

Mind if I ask what tires those are? They look awesome!

Hey Jake just saw this thread, cool about digging out yur B3! Even though I am an old school rc10 guy from my youth I really like the engineering of the B3.

I have a few builds of B3's but this racer might give you some ideas.

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=26260

Those are Traxxas Anacondas.

Yeah, I like the look of those tires 2500M_Sub. I'd love to know what they're like when you get it going.
Dave

flipwils11 wrote:Hey Jake just saw this thread, cool about digging out yur B3! Even though I am an old school rc10 guy from my youth I really like the engineering of the B3.

I have a few builds of B3's but this racer might give you some ideas.

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=26260

Hey thanks. I have done a lot of reading on here and noticed you have built a couple pretty cool B3's. Very nice stuff, those Fibrelyte towers are cool. If you have any spare aluminum or rare hop up parts PM me!

Well I got the battery in and much to my suprise the old ESC and brushed motor still works. I'll run them for a little while and if I really get back into RC I'm going to likely get a castle sv3/4600k. I napped so long on the Duratrax scratch and dent deal that they are gone. The 27 turn Trintiy has good acceleration but top end leaves me wanting.

I also just ordered a fair amount of suspension/chassis parts so I will have them down the road. One thing that concerns me though is the apparent lack of outdrives for these, couldn't even find anything on ebay. Whats the solution for this? Mine overall are good but one side does have a chip in it.

Do RC10GT transmission parts fit these? Any metal gears you can put in a stealth?

Well I have spent most of the morning searching and studying on the stealth transmission. Found a post on here that said Customworks GBX was same as the stealth 2.4 so I ordered a couple of customworks GBX outdrives. The thunder tiger ones were only a buck or so less so I went with these.

I should be set for the B3 apocolypse with all of the spare RC parts I'm accumulating.

DontTreadOnJake wrote: If you have any spare aluminum or rare hop up parts PM me!

Finding original Trinity or Hammad Grumman aluminum stuff will be tough, however Thunder Tiger has some really cool blue ann'd aluminum items like front bulkhead, rear transmission brace, wheel hubs and rear arm mounts etc. Brace yourself for the prices though, they're not at all cheap I didn't care for the 50+ price tag on the ream arm mounts

I hear that on the thunder tiger parts, $35 plus I think for the bulkhead alone! Maybe when I'm done buying chargers and all the basics again I'll splurge on that stuff. On a seperate note I ordered some parts from team associated today, the Carbon rear arms were on sale for $2.99 in cart instead of $10 so I got 3 sets!

I think my new strategy for getting parts is going to be buying stripped down B3/T3 rollers off Ebay. Some of the more tired looking ones go for literally $30 with shipping. You could salvage a lot off of some of them. I'm looking to land a spare associated chassis at some point also, seems like a good way to do it. The T3 and B3 chassis is the same correct?

DontTreadOnJake wrote:The T3 and B3 chassis is the same correct?

Nope there were 2 B3 chassis lengths, standard and short. It's tough to tell them apart out of package unless both were side by side or you had both battery tie-downs to quickly reference length with.

The T3 was a bit longer since it was a truck chassis. It's pretty easy to tell the difference between B3/T3 by the length of the chassis sides where the electronics are typically mounted. All had the option of carbon or carbon composite.

I'm not sure what was and is now most common for the B3, it really comes down to your personal preference and what you can get your hands on. All of the chassis's are interchangeable mounting wise, however B3 bodies don't quite fit a T3 chassis without time spent adjusting how the body mounts on the chassis. A T3 chassis on a B3 is heavier and will understeer ALOT, but will feel more stable in the air. You may not like it again depending on your driving preference.

I have all of them, it was an experiment and it's a toss up to which I like driving more

Do what i did an put a b4 layshaft in so you can use the twin pad slipper system. Its a direct fit as the gear is the same size. Youll need the slipper b4 plates as well as the springs and thrust as well as a gearcover and i opted for an rpm one on ebay. I will try and post pics when i get a chance.