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I actually found a solution for the long front arm equation. It was right under my nose the whole time,, and there I was searching the net for axle lengths, and cv bone lengths.....Are you ready for this? Cheap and easy, and hex drive for long front arm yz870c and early yz10?! I answered this question my self about 10 years ago when I broke a front arm on a tomy intruder,, and had to trade a set of bones and axles for more front arms... Then I dug through my parts pile for a suitable replacement to make my tomy run again,, and it ended up going to all 12mm hex and ran that way for years!


TOP FORCE.

Do you have any pictures you can show with this?

First pic comparing yokomo(tomy) long front axle to Tamiya top force axle.


2nd pic: top force axle installed, and pushed all the way in to the diff cup. Plenty clearance.



3rd pic: top force axle installed, and pulled all the way out to max length.



4th pic: Hex hub installed, axle pulled out. There is a traxxas 5mm axle shim in there.



Some axle shims on either side of the wheel axle will have it located how ever works best for the wheel offset. I think about 2-3mm to play with there. No binding in the diff cups. Everything fits and turns and flexes smoothly.

What about on the rear?? Will the top force partswork there as well? I saw that the db01 parts fit.. I am deciding between these two options..

I have this bookmarked for another project I will be working on in the near future and then this comes back up.. awesome! Going to build a yz10 with hex hubs.. already looking for some axles.. just love this place.. thanks!!

I think stickboy007 had been using the kyosho zx5 CVD axles 68mm for back axles. Those are available from 3racing for like 17 bucks, and these Tamiya axles can be had for about 24 bucks, or cheaper for the aftermarket cv version.

Yes, I am using ZX-5 axles on my 870c. I have a forum posting for my YZ10 videos, one of which shows what I did for my hex conversion.

So it looks like the Top Force dogbone is ~ 71-72mm, from the middle of the CV joint to the drive pin at the end of the dogbone. I'll have to measure the ZC-422 bones on the works models to see how it stacks up. One thing I have noticed is that different companies use different references along the CVD for where they measure the "length," and I end up wasting money on parts that end up not fitting correctly

After watching your videos, I wanted to do a hex conversion. The cost of 73mm kyosho axles kept the project at bay. This situation has also kept another build from happening. So, Now,, its time to build another 870c-yz10!!

The same for me on the kyosho parts.. tamiya stuff is so much less expensive.. I've look at your videos as well stickboy007 and found them to be really informative..

Shawn

Glad you like the videos. I agree the Kyosho parts are expensive. I should have checked the Top Force parts earlier, since I have a Top Force myself. Either way, if it works, it works...

I wonder if my manta ray axles will work?? Been wondering about it for a long time.. I might have a go on the weekend....

They should. Manta ray bones and axles might need a little shimming to keep the bones from flinging out, but should be a direct swap for top force UJ axles.

Manta ray uses dog bones and has a diff cup style setup in the hub...so no go there...

So have you all figured out the 870c hex conversion or what? Lets see what you have all been up too!