RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Mad Racer wrote:Awesome stuff with the C/F.

I agree with Marc 100%. Milling machine???

Mids are just awesome and the A&L steering kits are brillant.

Thank you Mad Racer!

See my last post on previous page where I write about my technique. No milling machine is needed and it's really simple.

/j0pp3

j0pp3 wrote:I'm using an original part as a blueprint and mount it with two screws to keep it firm on top of the CF plate. Then I just have to use a common sanding drum and file it down until I touch the edges of the original. Inner holes/areas are done in the same way except I have to use a bit smaller version of sanding drums. I just start somewhere drilling a hole at first (the biggest hole I could do). Then again sand the inner area down until I touch the edges.

Jerzi in this forum are doing it the exact same way but we did not know about each others techniques before we started

I've previously used a very similar technique, but as mentioned before, inside curves can be quite difficult with any round tool or bit....a lot of filing may be required. I fabricated some custom shock towers for my CYANide car using similar techniques. I might try it with a sanding drum next time, which would be easier, perhaps. I guess following along to duplicate an existing piece wouldn't be as difficult as free-handing one-off parts that don't match the original. That wasn't what I'd call easy. Even as careful as I was, anyone can clearly see that it's a one-off home-made piece.

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=17726&start=29

Coelacanth wrote:I've previously used a very similar technique, but as mentioned before, inside curves can be quite difficult with any round tool or bit....a lot of filing may be required. I fabricated some custom shock towers for my CYANide car using similar techniques. I might try it with a sanding drum next time, which would be easier, perhaps. I guess following along to duplicate an existing piece wouldn't be as difficult as free-handing one-off parts that don't match the original. That wasn't what I'd call easy. Even as careful as I was, anyone can clearly see that it's a one-off home-made piece.

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=17726&start=29

Cool stuff!

I think you just used a tool with too small diameter. Then it's hard to make straight lines. Small tools are only good for corners where the angles are tight. I use as big sanding drum as possible to avoid getting a "bumpy" lines. Step up in size now and then and don't press hard when getting close the final line. Let the tool work for it self in the end.

I have to give you cred for creating your own design! I just copy the parts as they are... yet!

/j0pp3

Small update.

I know, I am doing things the other way around. Body done before the chassis. A white repro Turbo Optima Mid body with repro Turbo Optima Mid decals from Tamkyo. I will leave the windows transparent. The text near the bottom is spelled a bit strange (B UGGY) so I am glad I did not use Tamkyo decals for my restore projects

Now I am waiting for a few parts before I continue.

[quote="j0pp3"]Small update.

I know, I am doing things the other way around. Body done before the chassis. A white repro Turbo Optima Mid body with repro Turbo Optima Mid decals from Tamkyo. I will leave the windows transparent. The text near the bottom is spelled a bit strange (B UGGY) so I am glad I did not use Tamkyo decals for my restore projects

Now I am waiting for a few parts before I continue.

[/quote

It is called Efficiency Sir no sitting around doing nothing. AWESOME as usual.

Bo Wallen wrote: It is called Efficiency Sir no sitting around doing nothing. AWESOME as usual.

Thank you!

Mr Garrison in South Park would probably say it like this: "Children, doing nothing is BAD, mkay".

a trick I use when making my own parts is to design them on paper, and then tape to blank material without cutting out the design. Then cut the design out with an xacto such that the blade traces the outline through the page and creates a cutout line in the blank material. The you simply grind/drill/file/polish with your tools until the line is gone. Usually the only issue is when you are approaching an inside curve with the wrong tool and take the radius out with a gouge.

see this thread, halfway down, I have the layout taped to the blank material, I usually start with all the holes drilled, then this way, all the important dimensions are held, and the outer shape can be tweaked as necessary.
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=16813&hilit=making+weapon&start=15

jwscab wrote:a trick I use when making my own parts is to design them on paper, and then tape to blank material without cutting out the design. Then cut the design out with an xacto such that the blade traces the outline through the page and creates a cutout line in the blank material. The you simply grind/drill/file/polish with your tools until the line is gone. Usually the only issue is when you are approaching an inside curve with the wrong tool and take the radius out with a gouge.

see this thread, halfway down, I have the layout taped to the blank material, I usually start with all the holes drilled, then this way, all the important dimensions are held, and the outer shape can be tweaked as necessary.
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=16813&hilit=making+weapon&start=15

That seemed to work pretty well too mate! Thanks for showing your technique. Designing home made parts is the next step for me but maybe not for this particular project.

Cheers

Let's have an update shall we? So.. I got some custom made mid arms today (thanks bigjeepzz!). Also found some other new stuff to add. It almost looks like a prototype

Picture time!

oh yeah, another trick to pass along. If you can find dirt cheap backer material, like polycarbonate or fiberglass or plexiglass, or even aluminum, use that as a backer to drill holes, particularly in carbon fiber. The backer supports the material as it's being drilled and prevents tearing and bulging on the back side of the hole. works beautifully. that goes for pretty much any material that you happen to drill through, but more so with composites and 'smeary' soft material, like aluminum.

Awesome j0pp3. You can't race that though buddy, it's a work of art!

Those arms look great on the car as I figured they would. You will definately get some attention with this car for sure.

Jake

It's going to be like a ghost mid when you get that white body wrapped on that chassis with white arms and wheels. Cool.

This board lacks a 'drool' icon...

EvolutionRevolution wrote:This board lacks a 'drool' icon...

Yes Yes Yes !!! a must have. will one like this work ?