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uniquenamehere wrote:
That's a great color... reminds me of Cliff Lett's team moo RC10ST. Nice job painting... was it spray bombs?

rc10johnny wrote:What parts do Ya NEED??????

PBR Allstar wrote:Okay, this I think is a pretty comprehensive list of how to do the Klein arm conversion. if anyone else has anything to ad post it up!

http://dynotech-racing.com/partDetail.php?RefNum=2700 Rear X2
http://dynotech-racing.com/partDetail.php?RefNum=2701 Front X2
http://www.avidrc.com/product/?c=0&p=102 Rear hub bearings x4
http://www.avidrc.com/product/?c=9&p=48 Front wheel bearings x4
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEU81 RPM GT Carriers 70272
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSYV7 Associated Rear CVA Kit B44
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEAH8&P=Z Associated wheel spacers
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKYT2&P=7 Associated wide front axles
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEAK8&P=SM Associated rear wheels
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEAK7&P=SM Associated front wheels
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2914&P=7 Associated truck bulkhead
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2964&P=SM Associated shock tower
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2585&P=SM Associated 1.02 shocks
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBVF8&P=7 Associated front springs
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2929&P=M Associated truck nose tubes
(these need to be shortened and redrilled for the correct wheelbase)
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTHT3&P=7 Dubro turnbuckles (x3 these need to be cut to length but is the cheap way to go, also good to use to determine length if you want to use titanium in the future

You will also need a truck front nose plate, these are no longer in production but are easy to find in the BST section or aftermarket ones are very plentiful on ebay like this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/Aluminum-Alloy-Front-Nose-Plate-Bumper-Fits-RC10GT-RC10_W0QQitemZ190311126494QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2c4f6d55de

There are other ways around it, but that is a pretty comprehensive parts list, it can be done pretty cheap (realatively speaking) if you get parts and help from members here, and scour ebay. If you want the slammed body look with the cut down chassis then you need to make your own rear shock tower or find a 10T rear tower which is no longer available from associated, but are still easy to find on ebay.

The assembly is very straight forward, Like mentioned above, you need to cut the nose tubes and redrill them so they work with the nose plate in the short wheelbase position, if you opt not to do this it will still work but the steering geometry will not be correct. It's good to have a dremel on hand as a couple parts may need a small tune up to fit perfectly, it's also a good idea to have a .126" chucking ream on hand to ensure a perfect fit of your hinge pins, those can be found at mcmaster carr for cheap http://www.mcmaster.com/#3087a31/=57tbxg hope this all helps those wanting to do the conversion!

JK Racing wrote:farmer, the jeepzz arms are for the truck front bulkhead, not the buggy that you painted

spray bomb - can of spray paint

teman wrote:If period correct matters with reverse, I'd say a normal Rooster or 610-rv and one of the NER-2 receivers or a Polaris if you can find one. As for the servo, well you can get a Novak but will cost a small fortune. if period correct doesn't matter and you want to stay brushed with reverse I'd say a Super Rooster with a XXL receiver.

DHood wrote:I have a NIP Associated lime green truck nose I'll trade you. It can be the stem for the pumkin

scr8p wrote:

DHood wrote:I have a NIP Associated lime green truck nose I'll trade you. It can be the stem for the pumkin