RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

No let's move on to the advanced jump face scrubbing technique that allows you to stay pinned to the jump face and still downside the landing

Hey, this is curb jumping 101! Downsiding is another class!

A front bumper may cause it to nose dive a little - not sure if you're running one or not.

You can also adjust the rear wing more angled to force the rear down.
Different wings have different downforce, again not sure which you are using.
You may even want to have a couple different ones to mess around with.

I just started running off-road a few weeks ago after my friends and I built a small backyard track. I only raced carpet oval before and had no idea about how my cars would handle.

This past weekend I broke a wing wire on my RC10. When I ran the car wingless, it felt totally different and actually jumped better on the larger tabletop we have.

I noticed my B44 seems nose heavy with the LiPo packs, so I'm going to add some weight in the rear to balance it out. But my RC10 seems light in the nose with the same LiPo packs. It's amazing how much differently the two cars handle and jump.

I'm finally getting an understanding of shock/spring/tire tuning after all those years of running full throttle while turning left.

LTO_Dave wrote:I just started running off-road a few weeks ago after my friends and I built a small backyard track. I only raced carpet oval before and had no idea about how my cars would handle.

This past weekend I broke a wing wire on my RC10. When I ran the car wingless, it felt totally different and actually jumped better on the larger tabletop we have.

I noticed my B44 seems nose heavy with the LiPo packs, so I'm going to add some weight in the rear to balance it out. But my RC10 seems light in the nose with the same LiPo packs. It's amazing how much differently the two cars handle and jump.

I'm finally getting an understanding of shock/spring/tire tuning after all those years of running full throttle while turning left.

before u start adding weight try setup change batt position, antisquat shock angle

flipwils11 wrote:I went out last night and messed with this on a jump I set up. The car is my new (expensive and heavy for bashing, but oh well, it's fun as hell) RC8Be. Lo and behold, it really worked, but working on the timing and getting less abrupt with my mid-air adjustments is a to-do for me.

But sure enough, I could usually launch the car nose high and then at the last minute apply some brake and get it to land on all four.

It's pretty cool to see that it really works!

8th scale is completely different game when it comes to adjusting pitch in the air with throttle... much much more reactive than anything 10th scale and particularly 2wd!

Speed scrubbing techniques - a lot of "drivers" can talk about it, very few can actually do it

Offroad rulz!

LTO_Dave wrote:I just started running off-road a few weeks ago after my friends and I built a small backyard track. I only raced carpet oval before and had no idea about how my cars would handle.

This past weekend I broke a wing wire on my RC10. When I ran the car wingless, it felt totally different and actually jumped better on the larger tabletop we have.

I noticed my B44 seems nose heavy with the LiPo packs, so I'm going to add some weight in the rear to balance it out. But my RC10 seems light in the nose with the same LiPo packs. It's amazing how much differently the two cars handle and jump.

I'm finally getting an understanding of shock/spring/tire tuning after all those years of running full throttle while turning left.

I would recommend you remove ANY drag brake

Ballast weight makes sense on bumpy tracks but there are many other things to try before resorting to that

Paul

farmer wrote:before u start adding weight try setup change batt position, antisquat shock angle

Thanks! I'll give the shock angle adjustments a try. My large TrakPower LiPo packs are wedged in there with a Diggity Designs tray, so there's no way to adjust their location on the chassis.

Lonestar wrote:I would recommend you remove ANY drag brake

Ballast weight makes sense on bumpy tracks but there are many other things to try before resorting to that

Paul

I honestly never gave the drag brake a thought until now. I have it set fairly high because the track is tight and twisty and it helped slow the car into the turns. I'll turn it down or off and see what that does. Our track is a combination of bumpy dirt and low grass, but some of the turns are getting smoother the more we run on it.

Center ballast is crucial imo on a b44, also battery position is fixed, as is antisquat.

teman wrote:A front bumper may cause it to nose dive a little - not sure if you're running one or not.

You can also adjust the rear wing more angled to force the rear down.
Different wings have different downforce, again not sure which you are using.
You may even want to have a couple different ones to mess around with.

Hey I'm not running a 'real' front bumper, just using the 10T front 'bumper' thing mounted upside down as I was going to mount some LED's in the stock holes but haven't gotten around to it yet.

I'm currently borrowing my son's stock AE large rear wing but I had a BRP bi level wing which had so much down force that it would easily wheelie when I would accelerate but it broke when I flipped it one day so its gone.

I noticed someone mentioned to not use drag brake, and that could be the reason my car is nose diving all the time so I will adjust that shortly and see what happens.

Lonestar wrote:

flipwils11 wrote:I went out last night and messed with this on a jump I set up. The car is my new (expensive and heavy for bashing, but oh well, it's fun as hell) RC8Be. Lo and behold, it really worked, but working on the timing and getting less abrupt with my mid-air adjustments is a to-do for me.

But sure enough, I could usually launch the car nose high and then at the last minute apply some brake and get it to land on all four.

It's pretty cool to see that it really works!

8th scale is completely different game when it comes to adjusting pitch in the air with throttle... much much more reactive than anything 10th scale and particularly 2wd!

Speed scrubbing techniques - a lot of "drivers" can talk about it, very few can actually do it

Offroad rulz!

Comparing 2wd to ANYTHING 4wd is apples and oranges... But if you compare an electric 4wd to a 1/8 scale buggy, The electric cars react faster in the air using brake and throttle than ANY 1/8 fuel car I have ever driven. Now if your talking about a 1/8 electric buggy, that is another story but the 1/10 still reacts harder.

Speed scrubbing is not that hard... Most of the time tracks do not have a jump that its useful for.

It's a great passing and counter passing technique too