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most 2s stick lipo packs will fit, anything under 6000mah would be fine, i dremelled the battery area flat in my chassis so the pack sits better in the car

the runtime is determined by mah, so a 4200 nimh will last as long as a 4200 lipo, lipos have a higher nominal voltage 7.4v compared to nimh 7.2v however when peaked, nimh will put out higher voltages early. the big benefits of lipo are they have no memory effect, so u just "top them up" when u need to charge them, they are also lighter than nimh batteries, just make sure ur esc has a lipo cutoff so you dont over discharge them

So it would be safe to say that the esc that comes with the kit does not have the lipo cutoff? If this is the case then what would a good alternative esc be for the baldre?

Thanks!

Okay, apparently an esc does not come with the Baldre kit at all.

So here's a question for you all: If I were to use my newly purchased Tamiya Dirt Tuned motor in my Baldre, what esc should I use? I have one that came in my Hotshot that I'd gladly cannibalize if it would work.

Thanks!
Spleen Hammer

just look up the specs of the esc, if the baldre came with one it should be able to run a dirt tuned, tamiya normally put the TEU-104BK in their cars, a quick look on google showed me that is does indeed have a low voltage cut off that can be turn on or off depending on what battery u are using, and it can run motors down to 25 turn, the dirt tuned is a 27 turn, so it will run the dirt tuned motor no problem

Hey all,
Some more questions here.

If I were to get a brushless setup would I have to get a metal spur gear? I've heard of brushless rig chewing threw spur gears like tasty snacks. If this was the case, where would I buy one?

Also, is low turns better on motors or is high turns? What is a "turn"?

Lastly, how does one figure out gear ratios? Right now I have a 91 tooth spur gear and a 23t pinion gear (included in the kit for the dirt-tuned motor, which I have installed.) Does a smaller pinion equate to more speed or a larger pinion?

You know, is there a website where all of this is explained? Cause that'd be swell!

Thanks,
Spleen Hammer

Spleen Hammer wrote:Hey all,
Some more questions here.

If I were to get a brushless setup would I have to get a metal spur gear? I've heard of brushless rig chewing threw spur gears like tasty snacks. If this was the case, where would I buy one?

No need to get a metal spur gear, there seems to be this "brushless fear" on here and tamiya club, a brushless is only as powerful as what you buy, its like blanketing all brushed motors as low power, its simply not true, i can get a sedate 27 turn brushed or a high power 7 or 8 turn brushed motor

Spleen Hammer wrote: Also, is low turns better on motors or is high turns? What is a "turn"?

A turn refers to how many "winds" of wire there are, in sensored brushless, its always listed as having a ".5" at the end and instead of the winds being around the armature like on a brushed motor, in a brushless, the winds are in the can. Like brushed motors, the lower the number of winds, the faster the motor goes, eg, 13.5 is faster than a 17.5. its hard to give exact equivalents but a 21.5 is close to a 540 motor speed, 17.5 is close to a 27 turn stock motor and so on lower down the range, for reference, in general the fastest motor you would put in a 4wd buggy for racing would be 7.5, maybe 6.5, and in a 2wd, the fastest would probably be an 8.5. it should be noted that even though the motors can be put next to a brushed equivalent, brushed and brushless achieve speed rather differently, brushless produce more torque but less rpm so a brushless motor will always be geared taller than its brushed equivalent, which means the brushless will have a lower FDR to do the same speed as a brushed. i think a good fun motor is around the 13.5, enough motor for a bit of fun, not too much motor to the point where you break things etc,

Spleen Hammer wrote: Lastly, how does one figure out gear ratios? Right now I have a 91 tooth spur gear and a 23t pinion gear (included in the kit for the dirt-tuned motor, which I have installed.) Does a smaller pinion equate to more speed or a larger pinion?

You know, is there a website where all of this is explained? Cause that'd be swell!

Thanks,
Spleen Hammer

Gear ratios are usually compared using FDR (final drive ratio), the calc is Spur, divided by pinion times by the internal ratio of your car, in your case its 91/23*2.05 = 8.11 FDR. all you need to do is look on the web for gearing tips for whatever motor you're thinking of running. if your not racing, and you want to keep the motor happy, always go for a higher FDR than the recommended racing ratio, it will give u more run time and keep the motor cooler.

in simple terms, a larger pinion will give you more top speed, but.... if you go too crazy on the gear ratio, the motor wont have enough power to push the car to its max speed and it will go slower and you will heat the motor up very quickly. a larger pinion will also accelerate slower and give you less runtime