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Well I don't run it tight but I certainly loctite it... but it means you only have the time till the threadlock cures to set it up, so you'd better learn the track QUICK Running without a slipper certainly kills diffs and gears, but the weird part is that even with an unlocked slipper, the diffs die quickly

Paul

We run slicks and have wheelie traction everywhere so a locked slipper means instant traction trouble with the diff being consistent or fragging gears?

Great, even more problems to look forward to.

How do you guys have your slippers adjusted for high-bite tracks? I've set mine close to the manuals suggested 10.2mm between the end of the blue collar and the end of the shaft. I haven't run the car yet, so I have no idea if it's too tight or loose for these conditions.

Ha - understanda about the locked slipper.

I have diff inconsistency issues rather than broken gears (which would be explained perfectly by the locked slipper).

For setup, well, the key setup thing is that you setup the diffs off the car first, then you lock the slipper, then you set the diffs in the car to your liking with the slipper still locked, then you unscrew the slipper so that it slips just BEFORE the diffs. Then this gives you your maximum slipper tightening point for that diff setup. The key is to ALWAYS have the slipper slip before the diff when you do a static test. if you need to retighten the slipper (to clear a certain jump for instance) further then you also need to ensure you retighten the diffs too, and if you need to tighten the diffs so hard that they become gritty even though they have new components in, then it means theres a lube problem in the diff and you need to clean/rebuild.

This is one of the bits I certainly don't like with balldiffed 4wd cars - slipper/diff combo setup...

Paul