First attempt
- mrlexan
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Re: First attempt
JK, I tried that method and didn't have good results. I ended up tearing the tires off.... didn't matter as they were toast anyway.
I have yet to try to bake them or use the acetone method.
I have yet to try to bake them or use the acetone method.
I am not here cause I am playing photographer and on my mountain bike.
www.gojammedia.com
www.gojammedia.com
- templeofspeed
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Re: First attempt
Actually, if you are going to boil them use a steamer. Much hotter than boiling water.

- templeofspeed
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Re: First attempt
I'm pretty sure it is...it says "made in china".Asso_man! wrote:Is this a Factory Team one?

- mrlexan
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Re: First attempt
LOL!templeofspeed wrote:I'm pretty sure it is...it says "made in china".Asso_man! wrote:Is this a Factory Team one?





I am not here cause I am playing photographer and on my mountain bike.
www.gojammedia.com
www.gojammedia.com
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Re: First attempt
i use the oven as well but i preheat it to 350-400 then turn it off and throw the tires in. just make sure your wheels are vented or else the tires will balloon and distort like crazy.Weave wrote:Put the tires/wheels in the oven at 200-250 degrees for several minutes, the heat makes the CA glue very brittle and the tires should come off with a little effort. You may have to put them back in the oven a few times to get them off completely - it all depends on how well the tires are glued on and how thick the CA glue was applied. If you can't get a certain part of the bead free, put it back in the oven again. If you "force" it you'll probably just tear the tire and leave the bead on the rim. Be sure and wear oven mitts!!!!
i've never had a tire that didnt come off the wheel using the oven method.
- JK Racing
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Re: First attempt
Well I decided that even though it is a "5 foot" shelfer (looks awesome 5 feet away), I want to step up the fit and finish on the chassis. It has some knarly scratches/grooves in it from pounding the ground when it was a runner and I want to smooth them out. So 2 options: NIP chassis (that is out) or sand/fill/smooth/paint existing chassis (the path to take).
My question is this, to those that have done this type of refurbishing, how/with what/methods/should I farm it out to be done???? Oh, and since I am going through all this trouble anyways...I was thinking to have all the extra factory holes in the chassis filled. A "smoothie" chassis of sorts. Weld them up? (on alloy?) Epoxy? Filler?
Once ready, I do plan on leaving it black, polish the edges (love that look) and clearcoat it for killer shine. Some period correct wheels (hopefully AE) and tires, and MAYBE period correct electronics. A nice red label Twister or yellow label Peak motor or something.
Suggestions? Thoughts?? Poo Poo's???
My question is this, to those that have done this type of refurbishing, how/with what/methods/should I farm it out to be done???? Oh, and since I am going through all this trouble anyways...I was thinking to have all the extra factory holes in the chassis filled. A "smoothie" chassis of sorts. Weld them up? (on alloy?) Epoxy? Filler?
Once ready, I do plan on leaving it black, polish the edges (love that look) and clearcoat it for killer shine. Some period correct wheels (hopefully AE) and tires, and MAYBE period correct electronics. A nice red label Twister or yellow label Peak motor or something.
Suggestions? Thoughts?? Poo Poo's???
--Joey --
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
- scr8p
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Re: First attempt
well, there's nothing wrong with painting a chassis. i've done quite a few already. i try do remove as many of the scratches as possible, without using any kind of primer or filler. mainly, to keep the weight down. but, you can only sand on the aluminum so much before you start to lose the depths of the countersinks. once i get to that point, a couple coats of primer is all that's usually needed to fill in the scratches that are left. sand it smooth, and it's ready to paint.
also, you can weld any extra holes up, just be careful how hot you get the tub. you don't want to warp it. been there, done that. you could also use a quality 2 part epoxy type material. i have access to the 3M automix system at work. the structural bonding adhesive seems to work good for me. once it cures, sand it smooth, a little primer, and some more sanding, and it's ready for paint.
also, you can weld any extra holes up, just be careful how hot you get the tub. you don't want to warp it. been there, done that. you could also use a quality 2 part epoxy type material. i have access to the 3M automix system at work. the structural bonding adhesive seems to work good for me. once it cures, sand it smooth, a little primer, and some more sanding, and it's ready for paint.
- JK Racing
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Re: First attempt
Slowly getting it up to speed. Got a NIP wing kit (has black wing buttons, but I have the white ones from the kit, still in the bag) and some Jammin' tires for the back. Here she is so far...


--Joey --
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
- Asso_man!
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Re: First attempt
very nice! that was my first RC10 when younger, everything seems to be brand spanking new and period! Nice 

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