The Tale of Two Trucks (Painted!) pg3

[adam lancia]

Golds all around.... I think? Where's temple or Reggie when you need 'em... Heck, scr8p could prolly answer this one too

[Quikenuff]

I was looking through the rest of the build threads, I know I saw it somewhere that the original Team truck rear tires, were actually Proline tires. Can anyone point me to that thread or let me know what Proline part number I need?

thanks,
Quik

[Quikenuff]

Progress updates!

I recieved my parts orders but forgot a few things, so more parts on the way. I did finish coating the pans and other alunimum parts. I have to be honest, I wasn't happy with the finish. Normally I use an airbrush with the Cerakote, but this time I used an HVLP gun. I ended up with a lot or orange peel, instead of the usual smooth satin finish of an airbrush. I debated on doing it over, but was to impatient and wanted to start assembly. I ordered some fresh paint just incase I change my mind later.

Here are the results:

this is the Team Truck and other than a few nuts,hinge pins, and shock springs, all of the parts are original and clean or refinished.











Quik

[Quikenuff]

Here are some shots of the parts car. I should be able to finish this one up next week.









Quik

[rhino1]

Wow that looks awesome!

[Quikenuff]

I'm still looking for information on the original rear tires that came with the Team truck, but lucky me the truck I bought came with new, un used front tires 7870s. The rubber is pretty firm compared to the other tires. Is there a trick to softening them up? Where they are harder tires orginally?

thanks,
Quik

[AnonymousRC10]

Excellent job - They look like new again!

[Charlie don't surf]

I'm still looking for information on the original rear tires that came with the Team truck, but lucky me the truck I bought came with new, un used front tires 7870s. The rubber is pretty firm compared to the other tires. Is there a trick to softening them up? Where they are harder tires orginally?

thanks,
Quik

Sorry I didn't see the question before- 7035 team trucks would have white one piece wheels and the AE version of the Proline Pro-65 front ( 7865 maybe ) and the Proline RED Pro 90 rear tires from the factory.

[Quikenuff]

Thanks for the reply CDS,

I have the original manual that came with 7035 and it quotes standard 7870s in the front. Rear tire part number says 7821 but in one of the prictures you can just see the "PRO - 90 Made in USA" but nothing else.

I picked up a set of these, new, hoping they were correct. But I don't think they are. The manual also mentions that they "are constantly working to upgrade the kitand if we find a tire that we feel is better. We reserve the right to change them at any time." So who know other than the kid or guy that opened the box?



Quik

[Charlie don't surf]

Tecnically the tire you have there is a 8090 and came in a blue box (as I recall), the 7090 is the RED 90- same tire, different compound maybe even the XTR- that tire is more probable as the one I mentioned and was the T2 rear tire a year later. AE didn't always photo what they put in the kit-

[Quikenuff]

Thanks again,

I've seen the Red's Pro-90 once or twice on ebay. I'll have to keep an eye out for another set. I'm not familiar with the XTR? Same tire, different side wall. or all together different?

Quik

[JPAE07]

Awesome job on both restos.
I appreciate how you retained almost 100% of the original parts you started out with.

[Quikenuff]

Thanks for the positive feed back folks! I'm currently working on stripping the original Team Truck body and sourcing elctronics.

The paint stripping is a very slow going process using the break fluid method. It's the only thing I've found that doesn't destroy the lexan.
For the electronics I'm looking for sominething in the Novak 410 series for the ESC and have a Novak NER-2X AM reciever. Is the 410 series a good choice? Something that someone who bought a Team Truck back in the day would have installed?

Thanks,
Quik

[klavy69]

The paint stripping is a very slow going process using the break fluid method. It's the only thing I've found that doesn't destroy the lexan.

nitro fuel would be quicker for you. Shouldn't mess with your lexan either unless you leave it in there for weeks on end.

Todd

[Quikenuff]

Finally got the body stripped. I still have some clean up to do. Whatever paint that was used originally was very difficult to remove and etched the body pretty bad. I'll just say I finially found a use for my extensive military toothbrush training. I've been using various grades of steel wool to clean up the etching. The black you see around the number plate is glue, and unfortunatley I will have to live with it. If there were repo Team truck bodies I wouldn't even think about doing this again.

Turns out DOT 4 break fluid is the best option for removing RC body paint. It worked much better than the DOT 3.







Thanks for looking,
Quik